That idea does sound interesting indeed especially because he appears to be more prey driven than food driven these days.
If that is what you noticed, have you used a toy as a reward? It has to be something he doesn't play with often and it became the best reward he can ever get. When a game is over, put the toy away in a drawer. If you let that toy to sit around, it become invaluable. You can use it to work with marker training too. Always, end the game when he wants his toy the most.
"It's better to be an optimist who is sometimes wrong than a pessimist who is always right"
Reg: 07-13-2005
Posts: 31571
Loc: North-Central coast of California
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If you use the search engine up on the upper right here (up where it says "active topics," then "search"), and do two searches, one using desensitize and one using desensitizing as your Keyword Search Terms, and expand the Date Range from one week to three years, you will get very specific thread returns. If you add my name as the Display Name Search with this particular topic, you might get even more specific returns.
There are much broader and better search engines here, both upper left on the board here ("Search Leerburg.com") as well as on LB itself (at http://leerburg.com/search/searchresults.php?terms= ), but in this instance, I think you'll get exactly what you want this way.
I'll dig up a couple, too ..... give you a fish and teach you to fish.
I walked him today after reading some of the threads. Thanks Connie! I think I understand what I have to do. He was a bit better. I literally ran past the houses that had dogs living there (which is like every other house on the street). I also managed to lure him past another with a piece of cheese. I just found out he loves cheese much more than he loves sausage. He's definitely tired out from running with me too.
I have two questions though. I read that you would do basic obedience with a dog in the background out of his reactive zone. (Correct me if I've misunderstood). Would it be correct to try this with the neighbor's dog when it's in their yard? The neighbor's dog completely ignores my own.
Also, a bit of a random question, but any suggestions for high value treats for dogs? I've got cheese so far, but I can't keep giving him cheese he'll get tired of it. He loves peanut butter but that's a bit awkward to carry as a treat on a walk.
I would say yes the neighbor's dog is a trigger. Even though the neighbor's dog ignores him, my dog will whine and bark at him all day. As for the definite range, all I can say is that it is probably a very far distance away. I can find out today.
Reg: 07-13-2005
Posts: 31571
Loc: North-Central coast of California
Offline
I would find that out. Then you might tell us how that looks ... how it sets up for stopping there, briefly at first (always outside the reactive range).
And a hint: your dog should be, IMO, a well-exercised dog who has not had dinner yet ...
As a beginner, I'd assume the reactive zone is big. I'd overestimate it. I'd be slow to start trying to decrease it. I'd do a couple of minutes of focus work and then off we go until another day, leaving a pleasant memory in the dog's brain of that spot and what you did there.
This is work whose results last a lifetime. It's enjoyable, and every repetition reinforces it. No hurry at all ....
I want to gather this info: Right now, my well-walked dog can focus on me and my commands and rewards at a distance of 60 feet from Trigger Dog.
I was pondering what you have told me so far and I was just wondering about something. My dog is very reactive to other dogs when walking which is a defensive mechanism right? Why is it when I let him run in the yard the first thing he does it run straight to the fence and look for the neighbor's dog to bark at him? Even if the dog isn't in the yard, my dog will sit and wait for it to show and then bark. Is this more of a territory thing? Will it change if I keep desensitizing him to other dogs?
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