Leslie McDevitt (I think that's her name) is the author of Controlled Unleashed (CU) which incorporates LAT and BAT. There are several DVD's available and she has a yahoogroup you can sign up for. I was advised of her system for my dog, but turns out he didn't really need it (he's still crazy but not in that way).

Thanks everyone!!

Jon

I've been thinking about Steve's comment, and how personal these choices are. No two dogs are alike, and no two handlers are alike. What works for one handler in one situation may not work with another dog in another situation. I am reminded of a recent thread on corrections, and the many different ways the term, 'correction' can be understood, and then the endless variety of ways corrections can be implemented.

I tend to be a cerebral handler, I really enjoy the mental challenge of figuring out what will help my dog develop into a good canine citizen. I don't have the upper body strength, nor the inclination, to administer, "Come to Jesus" corrections.

I also recommend Leslie McDevitt's "Control Unleashed", and Emma Parsons, "Clicking for Calm".

That doesn't mean I am not above giving Jethro my knee in his side, just behind his rib cage if that is the only way I can get his attention, but I really love the way my relationship with my dogs is evolving, as I learn more about the kinds of things that get, and keep, their attention.

"Come to Jesus" corrections are not at all what I say or what I mean when I'm talking about desensitizing a reactive dog.

Focus on me and bullet-proof obedience are my goals, and my M.O., which I've detailed a few times here, doesn't even use the word "corrections." Steve's overview here sums up my M.O.: "Start at a distance where your dog can pay attention to you, decrease the distance when they're ready for it. Solid, focused obedience that lets them tune out the bogeymen. You'll be amazed what a confidence boost your dog will get."

I usually use a lot more unnecessary words, but that's the gist of it. Also, I use marker training. But the basic underpinning is such solid obedience that the dog has a default behavior that is not being reactive. ("Tuning out the bogeyman" and getting to perceive that the focus on me and the obedience to me are successful for the dog are indeed big confidence boosters.) JMO!

Not in any way negating your success or your method or your good work. I'm just clarifying that the solid, focused obedience that is my goal with a reactive dog isn't at all reliant on my upper body strength. Luckily.

Jenny, I wanted to give an opinion to the op and I really couldnt come up with a way to do it without giving you the idea it was directed at you. We all live with our dogs in a way that fits us. I own dogs strictly for my own enjoyment and I'm sure I do a lot of things other people wouldnt agree with. As long as you enjoy what your doing, I think you should keep doing it.

I was just thinking back to different people I've come accross over the years who hit a point where they didnt enjoy it anymore. I just hate to see that.

Yes, Connie, this is it exactly.

I would say 80% of my development as a handler has been figuring out, and managing, the distance where my dog will pay attention to me so we can practice our OB skills. We need to build desensitization to the stimulus, while concurrently building OB and engagement. Another 10% is undoing the handler errors I was making in the presence of 'bogeythingys' which actually caused or exacerbated arousal, rather than de-escalating, and the final 10% is building my own muscle-memory in the face of bogeythingys so that I remain calm and give clear instructions (every single time).

The fact is, that my dog loves to learn, and is quick to acquire competence. I use marker training with treats and both my dogs are a lot of fun to train. My challenge is to provide really, really consistent responses on my part to help Jethro cope with the things he finds overwhelming out there (ie. the skunk that got him the other night).

Moved from http://leerburg.com/webboard/thread.php?topic_id=33669&page=5

 Quote: SamanthaTopper

I think BAT may help, since you mention that her focus is on the other dog. If anything, you could just read over it and then decide 'nope, probably not' and continue with what you've been doing to manage her. Some dogs really are dog aggressive/reactive and cannot be trusted. That's okay, because that's the beauty of individuality. We love them for who they are, and not because we want robots with input-output.

Sam, Jodi, and anyone else that would like to weigh in on BAT;

I have read over the BAT steps for a reactive dog and I have an observation and a question...
It appears that these steps are very similar to the desensitizing work I've been doing at the club, with a few differences. The biggest difference I see, and the easiest to change, is the timing of the mark. I think I've got a pretty good grasp on how to implement it.

My question is, will the self-gratifying behaviors that she practices countermand the BAT protocol? It occurs to me that the good work would be undone by the barrier aggression she displays and the fence-fighting that she does when she is guarding the property. Should I expect a working guard dog to become completely non-reactive? I am certainly going to give this a shot, but I want my expectations to be reasonable.

I'm with Steve & Connie....My female is VERY reactive & has become somewhat dog aggressive, especially after having been attacked a number of times by strange dogs.

What works for me is totally solid OB & a drop dead 'watch me' command. I put them into a foos (heel) position & give then a 'watch me' command. When I say 'watch me' my dogs focus on my eyes & do not break eye contact until I release them.

This keeps them from focusing on a dog that may be giving them the eye for a challenge or trying to charge their way dragging their owner. I often will then just heel them in the other direction away from the other dog.

If in the vet's office if generally just go over to the cornor by a hallway & down my dog. If a dog tries to make an eye at my dog I just do what I stated above.

This is what works for me, as my dog is not the aggresser ...she is only as a response to another dog's aggression or encroachment into her space.

There is a BAT book by the originator, Grisha Stewart. You can download it for Kindle, priced at just over $7 (Kindle app is available even on PC for free).

I found BAT very useful for some situations...namely getting my dog to walk down the block after being attacked by another dog.

 Quote: Melissa Hoyer

... I found BAT very useful for some situations...namely getting my dog to walk down the block after being attacked by another dog.

JMO again .... this is exactly the situation for BAT ... a dog who is frightened to the point of avoidance.

The remainder of the reactivity spectrum, for me, is addressed well with desensitizing techniques that minimize (and in fact eliminate) focus and attention on the trigger.

MHO!