Re: Help...
[Re: Anna Hutzky ]
#387460 - 12/19/2013 05:41 PM |
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Thank you for the video! I really like that. That could also be applied to teaching him to pay less attention to the cat once we have worked on the food, correct?
Yes! Kind of the same concept, leaning more towards desensitization in the end, but at first, if you can just get him to "leave" the cat, then awesome - however I would not recommend holding the cat under your hand while you teach it!
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Re: Help...
[Re: Anna Hutzky ]
#387466 - 12/19/2013 06:01 PM |
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I think we're basically on the same page here, for the sitting and waiting, use marker training...
...but for the pulling, use the prong collar...but please don't let him run to the end and correct himself, just don't let him run past you in the first place...otherwise its confusing to the dog who has no idea what you want. Personally I wouldn't let a dog knock me on the ground a few times and then mark it when it stops dragging me...the prong collar has a purpose.
A tired dog is a good dog, a trained dog is a better dog. |
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Re: Help...
[Re: Anna Hutzky ]
#387485 - 12/20/2013 10:58 AM |
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Oh and too add something else about the trying to run past you...you can do A LOT more with just your body language alone. Many times rather than correct the dog with the leash, and here timing is just as important, you can block him and make him backup...kinda like "You shall not pass!"  Way hard to explain but would be easy to show.
A tired dog is a good dog, a trained dog is a better dog. |
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Re: Help...
[Re: Anna Hutzky ]
#387486 - 12/20/2013 11:28 AM |
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BIG FAT DITTO! :-)
Here's something somewhat similar : When walking through the house , I make it a point when there is a new dog to give zero ground. That is, I don't step around a dog .... I may slow down for my own safety, but I move inexorably on the path I was on, and the dog has to move. Even if my feet touch the dog, they keep moving. They may be shuffling, but they don't stop or change direction for the dog. Like being battery-driven with no steering.
The major reason for this (for me) is to establish whose house and space this is and who moves for whom.
But also, it keeps dogs from under my feet when I may have a load of groceries, or maybe it's dark in the room, etc. The dog must pay attention to my movements, and not vice versa.
If this sounds like "kick the dog" or something ... it's not.
It's a clear indication to the dog, non-verbal and very clear in dog-speak, as to who watches and follows and moves out of the way for whom.
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Re: Help...
[Re: Tresa Hendrix ]
#387487 - 12/20/2013 11:30 AM |
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Oh and too add something else about the trying to run past you...you can do A LOT more with just your body language alone. Many times rather than correct the dog with the leash, and here timing is just as important, you can block him and make him backup...kinda like "You shall not pass!"  Way hard to explain but would be easy to show.
And when I do this, it's very matter-of-fact.
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Re: Help...
[Re: Anna Hutzky ]
#387488 - 12/20/2013 11:32 AM |
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Ditto that ditto.
Physical space is a resource (to a dog). When you "get in their space" either by blocking their path, or making them give way to your path it is a big non-verbal signal that says loud and clear "I'm in charge here."
Many minor infractions in a household can be squelched by simply blocking the dog, or taking a step into their space. You don't have to say a word.
Cinco | Jack | Fanny | Ellie | Chip | Deacon |
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Re: Help...
[Re: Tracy Collins ]
#387489 - 12/20/2013 11:39 AM |
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Many minor infractions in a household can be squelched by simply blocking the dog, or taking a step into their space. You don't have to say a word.
And best of all, it's in dog language. Nothing we say in people-speak can be as clear.
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Re: Help...
[Re: Anna Hutzky ]
#387492 - 12/20/2013 12:46 PM |
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Yes!!! Connie you explained it way better. Only when the dog ignores your body language and verbal warning does he get a leash correction.
A tired dog is a good dog, a trained dog is a better dog. |
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Re: Help...
[Re: Anna Hutzky ]
#387499 - 12/20/2013 02:17 PM |
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Thanks for he input! This morning when we were out for a walk I did that in a sense. If he tried to pass me I would step in front him, block his path and keep on walking. If he tried to go around me anyways, I supplemented that block with a "no" and/or leash correction. It took him a few times to figure it out, but he eventually did. It only took about 5 or 6 times.
I use the same horse training Ed does, and it's the same type of thing. if the horse gets in your personal space bubble, tries to run you over, etc, you block them with first your body, and if they dont heed that, it's a "leash" correction, in other words, a snap of the rope under their chin. I'm kind of amazed at how similar dog training is to horse training. In horse training they talk about the three L's. Love, language and leadership. Too much or too little of any of those will cause problems. It's a balance. And im learning that this same concept goes for my canine friend as well. Sorry for rambling!
Again, thank you.  im feeling somewhat better after yesterday.
-sent from my Galaxy S3
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Re: Help...
[Re: Anna Hutzky ]
#387500 - 12/20/2013 03:50 PM |
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good points connie . . .
anna here are some terms that may help : when you obstruct the dogs' path ( to get whatever ) that is referred to as " blocking " ( duh ! ) . it is a legitimate technique which requires timing and planning on the part of the handler to be effective .
the other one which connie alluded to is called " yielding " and it is basically : who is going to give way to who , who is going to yield to the other , who is in charge .
hope that helps .
dogs : the best part of being human |
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