I'm betting on the distractions of the big wide world being the cause of diminished interest in food rewards.

Again, this is why proofing for distraction is such a HUGE component of training.

"We bought the puppy FOR TROOPER to have a playmate, and we don't want him to think we are ignoring him in favor of the new puppy -- he loves her so far and plays very appropriately with her.

I am a little concerned that we may be messing up by letting them play together at this point -- Mr. Frawley mentioned in one video that he didn't want to let his dogs in training play with other dogs so they would think that 'HE is the most fun'.

I haven't always been separating them for training, or separating them far enough, but I am leaning towards doing more of this separately.

14) We intended to give them each a Different "Yes" and "Good" command, but I find myself constantly forgetting to distinguish for each dog so that might be out the window.

Thoughts? Do two dogs that live close together need two sets of markers?"



I don't have time right this second to reply to this, but I don't want any of it to get lost in your mixed post.

These are all important.

But I start off by saying that the answer to "Do two dogs that live close together need two sets of markers?" is NO.

You'll get more answers.

"Carol boiled up some chicken thighs and these are working pretty well for both dogs, but again, they are quite greasy, and my hand almost becomes a treat even with nothing in it. (Lick my hand before they even get the treat under my thumb.)"


Use skinless white meat instead so you can dice it up for your bait bag with no mess.

Make the pieces M&M size .... the cost between breast and thigh is almost indistinguishable at that size.

Holy cow Herb.
1. URL bbcode syntax!!! What????
3. I'm not a kid either Herb. You don't have to run around, just don't be too static and boring. Movement relieves pressure for dogs too.


8. Its Not that you have to starve him, and some folks do only feed meals by hand to build food drive, but I just think of it as being more along the lines of what you'll find on the videos you're going to watch, when it mentions presentation, engagement, etc.. Its a part of the enjoyment for your dog, not just that he likes steak. Does that make sense?

10. This sounds like you really haven't taught him anything with the collar and have just relied on the discomfort to keep him from pulling too hard. Putting it up high and tight is going to help you restrain him, but you'd be better off teaching him to walk on a loose leash. Others may have more thought out ideas on that, I just give a couple pops when they pull too hard, straight back, and I don't say anything. I always have a clear release too, where my dog gets to wander around sniffing or whatever and doesn't have to worry about walking with me. Its more like I'm following him from smell to smell then.

12. Start over immediately on a recall and begin it right away with your puppy. Touchpads and everything else are far less important than teaching your dog to come to you and its really good when they do because tey want to.

13. My dogs play together. Its up to you and the temperaments of the dogs. There's nothing incorrect about what you've read and in a lot of cases, it could be the only right way, but not always.

14++ Keep things simple for you. Number one is to make things clear to your dog. Don't feed cooked fats. Try Zukes or cut hot dogs in small enough pieces they don't have to stop and chew. Natural balance rolls are good. Have fun with it all too. The dogs know when you enjoy it, it helps them enjoy it too.

All good advice.

To be clear, Trooper comes really well UNTIL that sensory overload of the world overwhelms him.

I have used hot dogs, they are a no better probably than the cookies we use.

It's definitely true that he won't take food when excited, but I am also saying that lately he seems to have reduced food drive.

 Quote: Herb Martin

It's definitely true that he won't take food when excited, but I am also saying that lately he seems to have reduced food drive.

Is he eating meals as usual?

Is he eating the same amount as usual? The same type? Is his weight staying normal?

(That is, is there a chance that he is being overfed?)



If he is not eating his meals normally, the same possibly-overfeeding question applies, but also, has he had a checkup lately?

Is there any other sign of something wrong? Has he had a fecal spec checked lately?

"To be clear, Trooper comes really well UNTIL that sensory overload of the world overwhelms him."



You might want to start a new thread for the recall. There are too many topics here for one thread (entitled "foot target suggestions"), and the recall is so important that it might be the one to break out first.

I'll keep my eye peeled for the new thread and link to it from here so you have the recall all in one thread.

Ok, Thanks.

The foot target was part of the lure which was the next piece of Michael Ellis' video so that is how I got there.

It's right after they teach the marker words and luring.

Trooper isn't to keen on standing on the feed bucket or a sturdy 1 1/2" pan Carol bought (it's lower than the bucket) but we haven't made a serious attempt to get him on there.

We might need to buy something flatter and LARGER to more or less require him to get onto the target.


I bought the Michael Ellis, recall video, and once again shocked at how little we knew from the older information.

Of course we had the basic idea, but the implementation details he shows are obvious going to work much better.

Trooper is a little slow to do the restrained recall -- inside with no distractions so far, but he gets there.


Sugar the puppy is also doing them well.

Short sessions, trying for several a day.

Next is out back ON THE DECK.

Then in the backyard.

Then in the front yard near the door, etc.

We are going to take our time getting there. Maybe a week for each.

BUMP