I don't think you mentioned what your doing with Greta when she acts up.

I don't like to put a dog in a high level of distraction or expect my dog to ignore any distraction beyond what we'e worked on.

Obviously that isn't always in our control but Time distance and distractions are all things to work on individually.

With any form of training (I love markers) I want my dogs attention when I ask for it but if the Distraction is to high then I just turn and walk away.

To much correction,if not effective just lets the dog know that it can refuse you.

Correction in general shouldn't be used unless the dog "REALLY" understands the behavior.

When the dog understands you want their attention or you want a sit, etc and doesn't give it then a correction is needed.

THEN the dog learns it's being corrected for ignoring you and NOT because it's being distracted.

Work on simple distractions that you can create in your yard.

Put the dog on a sit in your yard (on lead) and while both of you are in place just hop and see what happens.

If the dog breaks it's not ready for that distraction.

Do SIMPLE things to start with in your own yard.

VERY IMPORTANT

Try not to get frustrated and have fun training.

Hopefully I didn't confuse you with to much info so don't be afraid to ask more questions.



Someone else in the family just walking across the yard can be a huge distraction for some dogs.

If that doesn't distract the dog just have that person jump in the air a couple of times to distract the dog.

A half mile to a mile of easy walking is no big deal.

Most important is to keep any jumping to a minimum.



With markers training IS playtime.

 Quote: Carolyn Pike Roman

The strange thing is that even the "clubs" in the city don't seem to have non-class time available. Maybe that's the difference between IPO/Mondio/etc clubs and pet obedience training clubs, not sure. There is a Mondio club run by a really lovely woman in our general area but it's an hour away; I was kind of hoping for something closer.

There are many different types of facilities that offer dog training classes, for sure. Some are non-profit clubs that are affiliated with the AKC or another parent organization, others are privately owned facilities run for a profit. Some places may have their own building, others may be renting space somewhere. As with anything, it pays for one to do their research in deciding whether a particular facility meets their needs and expectations. Not all of them will, of course.

The club I was describing in my post above is about a 30-minute drive from me and has had their own building for many decades (and they are in the process of constructing a huge new building on the same site). Members who meet some basic requirements are allowed to have a key to the building so they can use it whenever the rooms are not being used for club purposes.

I do realize how lucky I am to have this kind of a club nearby and that not everyone is fortunate enough to have access to a facility like that. There is also a large private training facility close to me where I have taken classes, and I know they allow individuals to rent floor space for personal training when the building is free.

There is a list of AKC-affiliated clubs on their website but you probably already know of the facilities in your area. I can't speak to IPO or Mondio clubs, but again it sounds like you have checked into those, too. It does sounds like you are coming up with some creative solutions, though!

Thanks for checking back in, Bob & Cheri.

On the question of corrections, I haven't really introduced corrections into the obedience exercises yet. I assumed (maybe incorrectly) that those would come after she could reliably perform the action under a relatively high level of distraction. Is that correct? The only corrections I have given her have been for loose leash walking when she hits the end of the leash / pulls (re: the Ellis leash skills video) and for absolutely unacceptable behaviors, like continuing to jump and chew on our senior dog after being told NO. Otherwise its all been marker training and reward based focus work. Well- and the negative "nope" marker.

Have I misunderstood? should corrections be introduced at each level of distraction? Glad you asked, Bob. Seems like an important clarification!

When she is distracted by other dogs, I try to get her attention back on me. If that works, we keep practicing engagement. If it doesn't after 2-3 tries, we move away.

Tried the hopping thing in the driveway this morning- she moved slightly but held her sit. If I understand correctly, the next steps are to practice this until she doesn't move at all, then try it at higher levels of distraction until she breaks the sit and work at that level for a while- is that right?

Thanks again for all of the help!

Corrections aren't added until the dog really understands the behavior asked under distractions.

I personally don't think the dog has to be at a high level distraction but reliable with low level distractions that it can ignore easily without that particular distraction.

You have to know your dog's level of what corrections will get it's attention.

Starting to high and you have nowhere to go when the distractions get higher.

Starting to low and the dog ignores the correction.

You have to learn when your dog STARTS to show signs the distraction is got hold of him.

That can be nothing more then a look, the ears and or the tail coming up.

THIS is where the correction comes because you want to do it at the lowest level of excitement before the dog is out of control.

With marker training it's similar in that you want the dog to hold it's attention on you with low level distractions.

You can slowly add more distraction as the dog can handle.

I believe many dogs need to be exposed to corrections only because they wouldn't understand whats going on if you never correct and all of a sudden BAM!

They have to believe there are consequences for there actions be it good or bad.

That doesn't have to be physical.

My present GSD is super handler soft and he can be crushed with a harsh word.

For HIM that is a correction.

Read your dog!

Bob,

Always enjoy your tutorials. Always learn or relearn something.

Patience is the virtue most rewarded when training.

Sometimes helps to be an actor. Dogs often pick up on a person's posture, attitude and looks.

More corrections do not hasten training success. At least that is my experience. Lots of praise for even the little successes.

Gotta read the dog. And if there is a full moon.

Mike A.

Yes, if the dog is trying, but not getting it, and you correct, they can completely check out.

I remember the early days trying to teach my dog to always go behind the cattle to move them forward. He would bark at their heads....he seemed to understand that the cows thinking part was her head....I mean if you want to make your point, you don't go up to a person and scream at their boots.

Anyway, we were trying to push the cows out of the yard, and after flanking he'd run to the head. I got really mad at him when he turn ed a big steer back at me.

The dogs reaction? He went to the house. " Do it yourself, then! ". It took a few days for him to try again with vigor.

Agree with both of you.

My thoughts on corrections are all about reading the dog.

Thunder NEVER had a physical correction with all his training and titles he earned.

Trooper WILL NEVER have a physical correction simply because he doesn't have the make up to handle anything more then verbal or even getting the stink eye from me.

Correction is a huge deal for me simply because of my makeup.

I was pretty heavy handed back in the day yet I had good luck with terriers in AKC OB, one of which was nationally ranked.

"MY" issue was a correction could to easily turn into punishment and I realize those two words are to easily confused.

For the past 13 or so yrs markers have been a real enlightenment for me BUT I still think folks folks need to understand the when and how of physical corrections.

Betty, you mentioned "I really got mad at him".

This is why I mention that to many get punishment and correction mixed up.

With Thunder I could get mad and he would just give me a look as if he was saying "Get it out of you system you old fart and we can get back to training".

With Trooper it would be a disaster.

Trooper is an excellent dog in that he minds willingly and happily all the time..

He will be a happy clown till the day he dies but I know my limitations with a soft dog because now I'm just a nice old granpa.

My little guy is very earnest, he tries so hard.....not so much to "please", he is not a bootlicking dog, not at all...he wants to be "right", to be correct. If he can't figure out what " right " is, he doesn't want to do it....he might not even try, if I have not been real clear what exactly I want him to do.

Over the years, my guy has also learned that some tasks are just hard, they could be dangerous, or involve Betty yelling....and for those tasks, he disappears. For example, he will not help load cattle into a trailer.

That's ok with me.

"That's ok with me."

That's pretty much what makes us all happy with our dogs!