Simon, for an explanation of bite work, it advances in a step-by-step fashion. Your dog at the early age of five months is in early foundation work - now is the time to establish habits in the dog that he'll carry for his lifetime. You would be best working on grip work and increasing prey drive. Working on targeting at age five months is of no overall value if the earlier foundations aren't rock solid. It's putting the cart before the horse, plus the horse sucks...
And a little note about tug work - we often see that when a dog isn't interested in the tug, it's because the tug is not being animated and made interesting to the dog. Items in movement provoke prey drive, and hectic movements of the object ( in a non-threatening manner to the dog ) are the key to bringing out a dog's prey drive.
If you're having to tease the dog with an object before puting it on, and still the dog's drive decreases, you need to take some steps backwards and work with him until his prey drive for the object is unchanges in all circumstances. And your statement about not wanting to go back to tug work is what we see a lot in beginning handlers new to protection work - everyone wants to rush, rush, rush to bite work and spend the minimal time on foundation work. Don't make this common mistake, or you and your dog will pay for it over and over again in the future.

My dogs have excellent reputations for their bite work and fight drive - and the long period that I spend in foundation work is the major reason for my success in that. I am usually just getting around to titling my dogs starting at age three - but they're worked several times weekly for years before they are shown on the field ( or sold as PPD's or to Police departments, depending on the dog )

Slow down, review where your dog is at with an honest eye, and don't be afraid to take a few steps backwards with your training if that's what your dog needs - it'll pay off big in the end!

thanks alot. I appreciate your time. I put one of his tugs on a string/pole, and he seems to be somewhat more interested.

Simon,
we attached balls or tugs to the end of a horse buggy whip - just a flick of your wrist and the item moves in a flopping fashion. Most dogs love that type of action.

Simon: would you consider going to Ottawa to train with an decoy and/or trainer? If Ottawa is too far, they could suggest someone in the Toronto area. Email me privately and I will pass on a name. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Sorry it took so long to get back. When we start dogs biting sleeves if you look at it from the dogs point of view, on a sleeve he only gets a small portion of the decoy over him, where on the legs nearly all of you is over him. When dogs have problems with the legs we move them to the arms and they do much better. Always remember we are asking them to do wierd stuff. What would you grab? arm or leg???? As far as the other question asked I believe it was personal protection I don't think it matters where the dog bites. Just as long as he does bite!

I would also like to say the upper vs lower is a silly issue to argue, kinda like ford and chevy. I can see the officer's opinion on upper body bites he will be dealing with way more than any personal dog would unless your a maniac and wander bad areas of town with money taped to your body. lol I luckily have only been bitten once where I caught a dog wrong with a hidden sleeve. Unless I am a super sissy I think a dog that bites reasonably hard is going to make you goo when or wherever he bites. For the people who like to challenge dog bite stuff go buy a thin trial suit that the ring decoys wear, but get it so its not baggy. Then give your buddys a great laugh by letting thier dogs make you scream over and over, leg then arm also if you could film that and send me a copy........ lol