I agree that it comes down to selection testing, but also it has a ton to do with the foundation training of most dogs. When doing the bite imprinting or buiding whichever term one might use, the time in which you start to introduce defense, thus starting the stages for fight drive is very important, and will have a lasting impact on the dog in question. It woould be great if all dogs bit the man , and had no problems naturally, however this is not realistic. Even then if you start out with a great dog, an unskilled decoy can create a ton of problems. Josh is right on the money, you need a total package to have a good functioning unit.

Originally posted by Kevin Sheldahl:
Throw away your sleeve, start in a muzzle, test occasionally with a hidden sleeve, and occasionally train with a suit.

I was asked to elaborate on my earlier comment. So here goes.

The sleeve is an ideal training tool for development of the grip and even for maintaining the focus of the work on the decoy. Until it is misused (or the goals of its use not consistant with practical service dog training) it is a primary tool in the development of the apprehension work. The work with the sleeve must center on the dog choosing to redirect its efforts towards the decoy, not the equipment (note here that I have said that the dog must choose, and not that the decoy forces this behavior on the dog....a technique that does have its place but not if your work is correct from the outset). With the dog understanding that directing its efforts towards the decoy causes action by the decoy and when the decoy is dilliegent about creating action only when the dog is focused on the decoy (dog's eyes directed at the mans face or at least chest and face) equipment orientation is not an issue.

Another point is that if the dog really likes the sleeve, this is not a negative attribute. What is negative is if the dog is not addressing the man either due to misdirected training or the dogs character causing the dog to direct its efforts into the sleeve to avoid the inevitable confrontation with the decoy.

For the dog that is currently directed at the sleeve and fails to recognize the man in the equation there are some solutions as long as the animal is up to the task.

Muzzle work can be key. Develope the muzzle work without equipment present any where. It often needs a lot of decoy work without any equipment and without a muzzle to begin, where frustration is the goal. A skilled decoy may use some pressure to evoke defensive behaviors briefly in the dog as well.

Once the dog has been acclimated to the muzzle, shows strong efforts during civil work, simple engagements can be used in the muzzle. The decoy approaching at oblique angles and being driven out of the dogs area upon a solid thump of the muzzle about the torso and shoulders should make up; the mogority of early sessions. Avoid the intantaneous fall to the ground and roll around ordeal. That may not be used until the dog has demonstrated committment in the muzzle work.

The use of the hidden sleeve is only as a test. it is applied to be certain that the dogs orientation in the work is correct. i prefer to use it within the context of a search. The sleeve must be covered with a fresh unrecognizeable piece of clothing not the stinky old green military jacket so often used. No second chance is given, miss the grip loose it is the rules of the game. One grip and after that the hidden sleeve is just another sleeve.

The suit is just another great big sleeve. It does help in respect to broadening the dogs horizons and making them comfortable with trying new things like grips on odd places and people in odd positions. What it doesn't do directly is make a dog not equipment focused.

OK there is my quick elaboration. You might try looking at leerberg video muzzle work tape.

Thanks for elaborating on you're origional post Kevin.