Bradley,
You are right. The internet is not the best place to learn how to control aggression. I'd suggest you work alongside a local trainer who specializes in problem dogs. The best thing to do is to watch someone in action modifying the behavior. Its impossible to go from a book, or what someone wrote, and use it in real life, because in real life, the dog is acting back, requiring the trainer to adjust his/her methods continually during the session.
But like I and Angelique said, any aggression should be met with a swift correction. You have to jump to the top of the broom stick, meaning you can't let him one up you. You can't hold grudges either.
Good luck,
Michelle

Michelle , you are right about that, it is hard to write it out and that's why we get so many people coming to our club that want help and yet have read books, watched videos and so on, but nothing beats a good training session in person

Excellent thread!!! A couple of things:
1.) Steven Lindsey's books (which I believe Ed sells) Vol. I-III, but especially III deal with pack hierarchy, dominance and treatment in depth and are based on scientific studies (which he has gathered from the scientific journals). Excellent books, heavy reading, and lots of details (pricey, but well worth it).
2.) My question for Ms. Reeve is I noticed that you said "Aggression towards any pack member is met with a swift hard correction." I'm good with that and agree IF the owner can administer the proper correction AND then deal with the fallout i.e. dog comes back stronger, etc. But what about the owner who may not be dog savvy or have the strength to deliver the proper correction. What then? It seems that by utilizing this method we are entering a vicious and increasingly aggressive cycle. Dog shows aggression, owner corrects, dog either submits at this time only to act aggressive (possibly more so) next incident or dog doesn't submit this time and immediately comes back stronger. Now let me clarify I am not opposed to correction and personally have no problems using this method because I feel fairly confident in my "limited" skills winning the battle. Also, I am not attacking you (Ms. Reeve) I am only trying to bounce around some other thoughts for my own knowledge and thinking.
I do like the response that discusses redirecting the dogs aggression. I think that if we redirect we avoid the whole aggression issue all together. The question may arise, Well if we redirect the dog, he or she now believes they have won. But my concern is does the dog really think this way. If we can redirect, i.e. get the dog to perform a known behavior and move away from the aggressive incident have we accomplished something productive. I think it comes down to controlling the dog's environment all the time (especially with seriously dominant aggressive dogs) and not putting the dog in situations where aggression will be a known response. Any thoughts?

Michelle,

As always, thanks again. I do of course realize the difficulties that you had mentioned regarding giving advise or direction via these means. Also, the value of apprenticing a seasoned trainer cannot be expressed. Currently I am doing this, however, I do not like to put my eggs in one basket, so to speak. If I had the opportunity to shadow two or three qualified persons I think that would be optimal.

Randall,

Thanks for the opening words. But if you re-read some of the posts I don't think redirecting the dog's aggression, itself, is what was meant. Once the dog had reacted aggressivley a correction was recommended. The redirection was meant prior to a fear based reaction; requiring the handler the recognize the dogs warning siganls so as to able to interviene in a timely manner. So I doubt that the dog would think they had won anything because essentially the handler would have prevented anything from happening in the first place. In the case of dominant aggression I believe that it was suggested a correction was the only appropriate recourse of action.

I think for a dog comming back stronger after a correction, the techniques recommended from Leerburg utilizing dominant dog collars would be most appropriate.

Ladies, (or anyone) your thoughts?

Well avoiding conflict by the handler is fine but it will never go away(aggression from the dog).For instance with my very dominant male I have set him up , back tied him (for correction safety) I have done it all with supervision of our helpers and trainers in our club and I accomplished getting my point throught my dog for what ever I was working on which is mostly growling at me during a correction for not paying attention and other things.No matter what ,he will always growl and try to push the envelope.I've accepted that.
So now when he growls, I don't give up or ignore it but I don't try to fight with him either, I figured out that well, he growls, but he stil does what I want him to do.He still protests but he does it, that's the best I can ask cause he is 105 solid. I am tired of fighting with him.He has growled less and less but it's still there and it always will be.But that's my dog , I don't know that that is what your dog is doing.He doesn't have any dog agression unless they invade his space but I can cross path with another dog and he'll give me his full attention.

Angelique,

During the tie-out training, was the helper administering correction for growling at you or were they simply there in case things got out of hand or for advise as you did your own training? And, if it was the helper giving correction how far back from the dog were they, assuming you used a long line on a prong?

Hi Randall,
Well, here is the deal. If I am dealing with an aggressive dog that is showing aggression towards a pack member, I set him up. I make a situation where it is impossible for him to win. Lets take an example of aggression over a bone. I'll back tie and muzzle the dog. Put down said juicy bone in dogs reach. I also have a leather lead with prong or e collar on dog. Have a helper walk by the other dog or person (who ever the dog is guarding from). I know in this context the aggression will display or act out because the owner has told me this in the past. When it happens, I am in a position to win. There is nothing the dog can do to hurt me, and I correct him till he realizes his life is in my hand. If he tries to correct back, he is muzzled, and I am not afraid, so I bear down with my correction and I don't give up until he submits. This dog will not want to fight me again when all is said and done. Then I always recommend that when ever the 2 dogs are out, the aggressor is always muzzled, always with prong and lead on so a reminder can be given if need be until a significant period of time has gone by with no displays or challenges between the 2 dogs.. In my mind, then, they have worked out rank and fighting should cease. Hope that helps.
Michelle

Speaking of dominance, how old (or young)do alpha dogs show signs that they're dominant? Are there really cases when a nice little puppy up until say 6 months shows now signs of dominance only to mature into a 2 year old Hitler?

My chow exhibited what we considered aggression at 4 months. I think it may have started with his food bowl (guarding) and also with his crate. He din't want to go in or didn't want us approaching the gate even to let him out. We knew nothing about dealing with aggressive dogs and were eager for info. A supervisor of mine suggested Alpha rolling the dog. This worked for about 2 months until he started getting some size to him. My wife mainly dealt with him because she was the one at home. Soon he was stronger and she couldn't control him on his back anymore. It got worse from their. We found Leerburg and, after truly learning our dog (triggers, moods etc.), have been able to supress his aggression. I think it will always be there and he will show it if he thinks he'll get away with it. We will probably always have to correct him and never trust him under certain circumstances ie. always call him to us for petting as opposed to approaching him while he's laying down.

I'm glad you found Leerburg and found out that alpha rolling a dog doesn't work.

This alpha roll business that has become so dang widespread is to me nothing more than some idiot's idea (whoever first came up with it) of how to dominate a dog. It's not done in the wild. The alpha never rolls the subordinate. A myth and a fallacy. It's sad to think how many poor dogs have had to succumb to this ridiculous way of being treated. People who have done it without harm just haven't met the dog who will not put up with it (hooray for the dog).