Well, I don't think you should connect the leash to the prong collar. Have the leasch attached to the regular collar and put the prong collar on attached to a pull tap (very short leash or rope).


I think you'll get opinions about both pops or constant pressure. Popping with enough force to affect the dog in the given situation is what I would do.

 Quote:

Originally posted by VanCamp Robert:

Set up training scenarios where other dogs approach at a distance and the second that your dog sees them you get his attention and the second he gives it to you, you reward heavily and constantly while you move away from the area. Over time decrease the distance, then move to doing it on regular walks with strange dogs as you pass, then move to areas where there are dogs milling about or hanging out in the area.

Dog learns that other dogs are a cue to offer attention to you and to keep it on you for juicy rewards.

This is a good starting point, and I would second this suggestion. I would just like to add in one step that I didn't see mentioned. That would be teaching the dog to turn away from other dogs on a verbal cue. Often with dogs that are behaving aggressively toward other dogs, the visual contact is the trigger (dog spots other dog, eyes lock on, dog stiffens, then BANG, you have aggressive reaction), and once you break that visual contact you stand a far better chance of getting your dog to attend to you, and keeping that attention on working with you.

How I like to teach the turning away behavior is at first, with no other dogs around, practice it a few times until you feel comfortable. I like to use a food lure, enclosed in the fist of your free hand, right to the dog's nose, to basically guide them into turning away from a specific direction. Add in a verbal cue such as "turn away", "go away", "this way", or whatever. Be sure to keep pressure off the leash; this behavior is not about leash control; you eventually want the dog to turn away *on his own*, without needing physical guidance, on a verbal cue, like following a sit command. When you fade out the food lure, you can still use the closed fist.

Once you have established enough muscle memory in yourself to feel comfortable with this, start practicing it when other dogs are around, but at a distance that your dog is not out of control (as in VC's suggestion above). Over time with practice, what you see happening is, your dog spots another dog, but before his eyes lock on, you interrupt with cue to turn away, getting your dog's attention, using "watch me", etc., to keep your dog engaged with you when other dogs are around. At that point, obedience commands would be a good way to focus him on you. You might try working on this (linked below) separately, then once your dog is solid in his turning away and "watch me" behaviors, start integrating it into situations where other dogs are around.

http://www.cnca.com/whats-new-relax.htm

Good luck!

Well it does seem most of us see this as also an obedience issue, and 'even' I wrote that at the bottom of my very first post on this issue. Hopefully, Chastity was able to work this out because it seemed like she was under the impression obedience was on the back burner for young Schutzhund pups.

One of my daughters used food training to keep her Pittbull's attention when she walked in her neighborhood. Once the dog understood, the pinch renforced it. Her dog now will automatically turn and watch her everytime it sees another dog. Course my daughter is a mean little S#!+.

I like the way Old earth dog Bob Scott put

One of my daughters used food training to keep her Pittbull's attention when she walked in her neighborhood. Once the dog understood, the pinch renforced it. because that's also how I would use the food and prong for this. Can only really use the pinch effectively to TRAIN this if the dog already really really understands exactly what you are asking from all the prior training with the food.

All the postings people are suggesting should be a good start, but I still feel that 'fear' is where this is all coming from. With such a young dog, and it sounding like it's ALL dogs coming near. So de-sensitising with some levels of socialization (be it just a group dog class so there is no real interaction) or some other use of new and strange (and safe) dogs.

I was planning on addressing this with the trainer but dont see him until Friday night and was hoping to get some insight before them. What am I doing wrong?

How did that go with the trainer on friday? what was his assessement on what was happening? sometimes it's hard for people to give advice (especially when it's an aggression issue) over the interent, without actually seeing the dog and owner. I'd be intersted in what the trainer thinks is actually going on with Kane. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Well I went Friday night and he told me to have a prong on Kane. Kane doesnt act like that with "all" dogs just some and Friday night he watched how he acted. He is the one that told me not to "pop" him but to pull him up until he squirms a bit. I did this three times when he acted up and he behaved the rest of the night. He also told me that we need to work on Kanes food drive for some focus excersizes. I have been trying the "watch me" in my own back yard with some food, and the good stuff too not "doggy" treats. He loses interest quick. As soon as he looks up at me I reward with treat and praise but he gets bored I guess fast. Jumps away and wants to play. But we are working on it. Thats why I was looking to see the differences in using a "pop" and consistant pressure. The consistant pressure seems to be working good but wanted to know the differences in the two.

He also told me that we need to work on Kanes food drive for some focus excersizes.

My lab didn't have a whole lot of food drive at first either. Matter of fact, that's why I chose a lab, because everyone told me that their food drive was insatiable..
No ball drive, so I couldn't use a ball for reward. She always goes spastic when I touch her, so No petting for a reward. I have to keep my voice low and praises at a minimum because she gets over-excited. The training directors were hounding me at first to really just let go and Praise the heck out of her when she'd do what I wanted... Well all I had to do was show them once how she loses focus and goes nutzo when I do, and they said yea, tone it down a little with that one!. Just a simple good-girl sends her rear end flying in all directions.
Anyway, So for the food drive; I wen't so far as to not even feed her on nights that I had training class, so I could get a little more focus out of her. I keep her really thin and feed her minimal ammounts. I use dehydrated hotdogs, and those smelly bil-jac liver treats mixed with her kibble. SHe ONLY eats when she's working for me. I don't use a bowl to feed her in unless i'm training her to not be food aggressive with the food bowl of course. Or if training sessions are short and all her food isn't used up. Seems to do the trick quite nicely, but I don't think her food drive will ever really be all that.. JUST enough there to get good enough focus out of her.