Thanks for the help as usual. So can you guys give me ideas on how to start adding distraction to the recall? I've already done distance up to probably 30-40 yards or so. I know that I will need to shorten the distance to add distraction but not sure what else to do.
Shorten the distance to where the dog is right in front of or next to you again. Then proof with "mild" distraction.
NEVER add time, distance, OR distraction at the same time OR even two together.
Vary the distance even when you leave the dog. Go two paces and return. Go five paces then return. go twenty paces and return.
Don't fall int a pattern!
Random time, random distance, random distraction.
The biggest reason for failure is moving to fast in the training. ALWAYS break it down into as many small behaviors as possible. Get each behavior SOLID.
When the time comes to put it together it will go soooooo much smoother....I promise!
I also think 30 ft is to far at this stage in the game. It's not about how far you can go it's about solid with distraction up close first
It creates a more solid sit/down/whatever position you leave the dog in.
If you do a recall every single time you leave the dog then it can easily start to anticipate your recall. Until that sit is solid with distractions there is no way you should be doing recalls. Look at that return as a simple distraction. The dog learns not to move without the command to do so regardless of your movements.
"If dad is going to call me when he gets down field or gets across the ring I'll really impress him by being there when he turns around".
Not that I give a dog that much credit for complicated thought like that but it's an example of what can happen.
The same goes for teaching a down. Many if not most people start teaching the down from a sit. Do that enough time and the dog starts going into the down position from the sit without command. It's nothing more then anticipation of the next command because "that's what dad does when he makes me sit". That's why I LOVE the word RANDOM in reference to training. It's waaay to easy for the handler to fall into a pattern and reading our body language is what dogs do so well.
Make sense?
O.K. Now that makes sense. I have done random downs and sits to avoid the anticipation of going into the down. Also I've had dogs in the past that would only down from the sit because I had started teaching the down from the sit.
I have seen people at training put the dog in a sit or down, walk away, then come back to the dog and wondered why they did that. Now I see.
What I do.
Walk away random distances. Return and reward.
Sometimes return and immediately walk away again.
Sometimes return part way and walk away again.
These are all varieties of distraction.
I eventually get to a point where I can run away, come back, hop over the dog while running, run in ANY direction, do goofy dances with the dog watching me, etc.
In other words I make a complete fool out of myself to keep the dog "thinking".
Also, the reward isn't always with a mark. In other words it's not always a release for the dog.
When I do it this way the reward is given with a calm "gooood" and it's handed to the dog. That's a bridge to let the dog know it's doing what I want.
When the marker is given then the dog can break it's position and come to me for the reward.
Bob, I'm laughing at your post because I do the exact same thing. I have had people ask me why I jump over & around my dogs when they are laying down on the field. They must think I'm a complete fool. I'm sure that it looks pretty funny to the uneducated eye. LOL
Another thing Kory that I do is:.....since a lot of the training I do is on a local sports fields & there are always things laying around....I toss things at my dogs & have them remain in a down. I will toss golf balls (some guys will hit balls there for practice in the off season) water bottles,sticks, pens, pencils etc etc. I teach my dogs that a down is down & stay down no matter what. This way my dogs learn that if a random soccer ball or foot ball comes there way & hits them...which has happened quite a few times (as I often work them when the kids have gym class during the day)they don't panic or feel that they need to run away or chase it or the kids. It additionally helps proof them & make them even more solid.
Like Bob stated...one of the biggest problems with training without random exercises...is that dogs learn to anticipate what you will do next. They are so good at reading body language it's amazing. I used to move my female around with just using my eyes. They 'read' EVERYTHING we do.
When purchasing any product from Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. it is understood
that any and all products sold by Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. are sold in Dunn
County Wisconsin, USA. Any and all legal action taken against Leerburg Enterprises,
Inc. concerning the purchase or use of these products must take place in Dunn
County, Wisconsin. If customers do not agree with this policy they should not
purchase Leerburg Ent. Inc. products.
Dog Training is never without risk of injury. Do not use any of the products
sold by Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. without consulting a local professional.
The training methods shown in the Leerburg Ent. Inc. DVD’s are meant
to be used with a local instructor or trainer. Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. cannot
be held responsible for accidents or injuries to humans and/or animals.
Copyright 2010 Leerburg® Enterprises, Inc. All rights reserved. All photos and content on leerburg.com are part of a registered copyright owned by Leerburg Enterprise, Inc.
By accessing any information within Leerburg.com, you agree to abide by the
Leerburg.com Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.