Suggestions, I don't know. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> How about making the dog miss a few times in training over the course of a few weeks? You have to be careful and there is risk of injury. It might end up slowing his approach a little, sounds like he is a speed machine anyway so no big deal.

Work on targeting legs or butt from behind in training more. Working up to speed?


Maybe Lou or others have some better suggestions?

VC,
Being as he only seems to hit high when the decoy is running away,(a result of launching drills early in his training) I agree that we need to go back a few steps and work with a fleeing decoy and force the dog to target lower. Obviously this will have to be done on lead in the beginning. Thanks

Muzzle training where you teach the dog to target center mass every time is another thing you might do.

Howard,
I would back up the training on the flee attacks. I would have the dog restrained by a handler or pole and start feeding the dog calf bites. After several sessions of this (alternating legs). I would send the dog after the decoy on a 6' line letting the dog slowly drag you toward the walking decoy. When I got within range of the bite, I come up the line, take hold of the collar and guide the dog in for the leg bite. I wouldn't let the dog off leash until he was coming in low reliably.
All that being said, if the dog was imprinted high, chances are he'll always revert back to that "safe" bite when under pressure or high in drive. :rolleyes:

Thats the only thing I don't like about some KNPV and NVBK imports, they are encouraged to fly in the begining because it is spectacular in trial.

Scott,
No offense but I got a heck of a laugh out of your suggestion. Not that it isnt a good technique, but every time I thought about it all I could envision was my son hooking lizards up to his earlobes or me hanging my dog up for the day like a garden rake. Beautiful! I will definately try it!

I do, on an irregular basis, utilize the 6' lead to do targeted control bites on the suit. Holding the loop end in the left hand and the clasp end under my right hand to steer the dog to the desired area. After a few sessions of this, ol' Roscoe gets a clue and targets nicely. I believe more of this is in order. When he is on the tie back he goes for the chest or armpit so when working low bites I like to be able to move with him and the helper in fluid motion during these drills. It is also a smooth transition when the helper flees (not far) and the dog is sent onto the bite with me in tow to be certain he does what hes supposed to...Thanks for your help

VanCamp Robert wrote: Lou. . What I mean is you should do target training and other work to limit the chance of high bites. DIScourage them in training while you train for legs, arms, etc.

LC: I Know VC but I couldn't resist. LOL.

VanCamp Robert wrote: How about making the dog miss a few times in training over the course of a few weeks? You have to be careful and there is risk of injury. It might end up slowing his approach a little, sounds like he is a speed machine anyway so no big deal.

LC: Dodging the dog or doing an esquive is a classic method to discourage a dog from going airborne on the approach. You need a good decoy and be SURE that he makes the dog completely miss. I've seen good dogs twist in midair and still make the bite but their neck was twisted way around and they hurt themselves. VC is also right that it might slow down the approach a bit. Not great for competition dogs but not a bad thing for PSD’s or PPD's.

VanCamp Robert wrote: Work on targeting legs or butt from behind in training more. Working up to speed?

LC: I like to work legs exclusively for awhile so the dog tends to look there more. Have the decoy keep his upper body still but move the leg. One way to do this is to keep the toe on the ground but wiggle the knee around. Expect to wind up on the ground if you do this. Backing into a dog that's staked out while offering the leg or the butt also is good but think about wearing boots. If you have a dog that won't even look at the legs I backtie him and approach wearing only the pants of a suit. I wrap the near arm behind my back and hold it there with the off arm so that it doesn't even appear. I move the leg to within inches of the limit of the dog's reach and move it around until he looks there. Then I move the knee towards him so that it's the only thing that's available to bite.

Another way to help switch dogs over to legs and lower bites is to add a couple of tie-out stakes about five feet apart. Put two leather collars on the dog and clip him up between the stakes so that his front feet can't get to far off the ground. This method along with a back tie eliminates all options except what is presented to him. It's safer and you can use a leg sleeve if you don't own a suit---but BE CAREFUL! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />