Thanks Mike. But wat is a dead ring?

Putting the leash thru BOTH rings on the prong is known as the dead ring. Putting the leash on the D ring or a single ring is known ad the Live ring since there is an active pinching effect when using the live ring.

ok gotcha now...

Thanks for the info
I think i can get my hands on one of those nylon collars you talked about. I will borrow it and see how i go.

I did start by taking him away from the situation and wouldnt return until he was calm, but he is way to smart and realise that as soon as he was calm we would return to the group (this is at training) but as soon as that distance was breeched he would go again.

But i need to try and approach the whole situation a little calmer myself as a friend was observing me and noticed that i was tensing up which probably didnt help the situation.

Will let you know how i go with the nylon collar...just a gentle lift, right got it

Thanks again

Lift as much as needed for the dog. If he's a hard dog that's going off the wall then hang him higher. Every dog is different, you don't want to over correct but under correcting is possibly worse because the dog won't care about the correction.

I'll be honest. I'm one of those persons that doesn't have the stomach to lift a dog. I've seen some sick things done to a dog by fking drug addicts, slamming dogs against walls with everything they got, and I can't seem to be able to give a stronger leach correction than level 6.

Since my mom has a dog aggressive Golden rescue, I've been trying to work with him to get rid of his problem. When I gave him a Level 4 correction after he started barking at another dog, he looked at me and I could see he felt it, but after a while would continue to bark and do his thing.

That's why I think I'm not giving him a proper correction. And since I don't have what it takes to give a proper pop, I've considered buying an e-collar.

Does he know the correction comes from the owner when the e-collar electrocutes him?

PS. If someone saw me lifting a dog the way Mike describes, I'm sure they would call the authorities. Hell, if I saw someone doing it, and I had the slightest doubt in my mind whether that person knew what they were doing, I would call them as well. Your whole attitude changes when you see a dog being abused by a lowlife scumbag, lifting a dog (probably stolen) for no reason and then slamming it against a wall with all his might, without being able to do anything about it for fear of your own life.

Mike:

Why a nylon choke collar instead of the chain (metal)? I guess both do the same job?

Nylon is a smoother action, quicker to engage and a quicker release. The understanding from the dog comes from the release of the choker, it's kinda like an "ahh whew, I can breathe again, so if I calm down my air comes back" reaction. The links on the chain chokers tend to stick a little and catch fur in them, I want the action to be smooth, n nylon eliminates some of the handler error.

I've become a little more clinical in my thinking over the past few years when it comes to dog training. You see dogs get abused, I see dogs who want to kill handlers, bite people, fight other dogs and risk getting run over cars I'd rather correct a dog hard a few times than get sued by someone for my dog mauling their dog, or getting hit by a car etc. I love my dogs more than anyone, they're spoiled brats, I'm not hard on them for house manners by any stretch, but I absolutely do not tollerate aggression toward other dogs, it's incredibly annoying having a dog lunging n lashing out at other dogs. My GSD was dog aggressive at one point due to bad experiences with other males. Plus, he's very alpha with other dogs, he wants to be in charge n doesn't tollerate males well. Thru spending a year of correcting him in various ways, he's finally able to tollerate other males sniffing him for a few seconds at a time. The correction didn't come when he was in a red zone, so most corrections didn't have to be very hard. He understood that he wasn't allowed to look at another dog, so the correction came when I saw his head starting to turn. It's much easier to control a dog before they freak out than in the middle of a frenzy.

 Quote: Mike J Schoonbrood

I'd rather correct a dog hard a few times than get sued by someone for my dog mauling their dog, or getting hit by a car etc.

Hey, I know exactly what you mean, and I didn't judge you for correcting your dogs by lifting them. I just said why I wasn't able to do that.

 Quote:

so the correction came when I saw his head starting to turn.

I know exactly what you mean, and I do the same with the Golden. As soon as he raises his ears I do the Tsst sound and hit him with my two fingers on his neck to snap him out of it. If and when he makes a barking sound, I correct him.

Without meaning to take over the OP's thread, I would like to ask you a question...

Most of you want your dogs to ignore other dogs, as opposed to 'become friends'. Even though that's fine, in my case, I will get a new puppy in 2 weeks, and I was hoping that the Golden would be friendly with him. I visit my mom twice a week and like to play with the dog when I go there. So, I was hoping I could play with the two dogs when the time came.

Do you recommend I take my puppy to meet the Golden when he's young? I'm thinking (don't know if I'm right) that if the Golden meets him when the puppy is no threat to him, he could learn to accept him. In case he still goes crazy, I WOULD find the stomach to give him a Level 8 correction since it's MY dog he would be trying to hurt.

The Golden lived on the streets before my mom rescued him and was definitely abused. But he's not aggressive against humans (never!) only dogs. Kind of weird if you ask me.

That's very dog specific. The reason "we" want dogs to ignore other dogs is because in the working dog world, many people own very dominant dogs who will not get along with other dogs. This however is a huge generalization, its very dog specific, but we also want the dogs focus to be entirely on the handler and not act all goofy n try to play with other dogs when we're trying to work with them.

My male has been aggressive to other puppies, even on neutral territory, so it's a huge "if". I plan on getting another male pup, but I am prepared to seperate them for their entire lives if that's what has to happen. I have my dog under control to where I personally believe that if the introduction is done slowly and carefully that he will be OK with another male, at least when I am present, but that's because I know my dog very well n he is pretty sensitive to me. If you introduce your pup to the golden in the goldens home, you run the risk that he will get aggressive with the puppy out of territorial behavior. I would do the introduction on neutral ground, and perhaps with a fence or some safety between them. Or even have the puppy in a crate n just let them sniff eachother n move on for the first few months. Let the golden get used to the puppies presence rather than making them interact right away. If the golden even does so much as scratch the puppies nose or nips his ear, you run the risk of the puppy growing up dog aggressive n you'll have the same problem with your dog as you do with your moms dog.

Generally you have better odds of a male and a female liking eachother than 2 males. It's hit or miss, you can try it, but very carefully. You may have to accept that the golden just doesn't want anything to do with other dogs. The best thing to do is make the golden try to understand that the puppy is a new family member, and yes, do this young, but I would limit their interaction until you are absolutely sure of the reactions between them. Also I don't know what your goals are for your puppy, but if your pup is a working dog n you intend to do sport of some nature with him, and IMO this goes for pets too, but less important for pets... let the puppy spend the first 10 months of their life bonding with you, very limited interaction with older dogs, you want the pups world to revolve around you and not the older dog. If you do the introductions right, n the older dog can learn to like your new pup, then when the pup is 10-12 months old they can be best friends while still paying attention and placing you at #1.

It would not be a good idea to take a pup over to the territory of an adult dog aggressive dog. If you are going to have them meet, do it on neutral territory. Personally, I see no reason to put the puppy through it ANYWHERE as there is a real risk of physical harm coming to the puppy to say nothing of putting him on the course to becoming dog aggressive himself one day (due to mental trauma). If the only reason you want to put them together is so they can play, don't do it, your new pup will not be worse off for not playing with the golden.