Thanks! I now understand completely! LOL!!

Casey,

Unfortunately Lee is no longer part of this board.

But to answer your question, it all depends on the dog's drive level. Different dog's have different intensities in drives.

Most important things to think about when trying to teach focus is to try and avoid ratio strains. A ratio strain is basically when you've waited to long to reward the behavior so the dog gets distracted or gets frustrated and tries something else.

Another very important thing is to start off in a sterile environment when teaching so that your puppy can focus on the task. Once a behavior is well in place, I would create controlled distractions so that you set up the dog for success. A controlled distration is when you place you and your dog in a sterile environment and have someone else start to create minor distractions from a distance and build from there.

Lastly, make sure you reward with a variable schedule once your dog has the concept. Sometimes reward after a second of looking, then after 3 seconds, then 5, then 2, then 3, then 7, etc.. Make it to where the dog thinks the reward can come out at any time.

Good Luck

Thanks for the reply Chris. I think that I understand the beggining stages of teaching the dog eye contact with treats. I have also watched the Flinks tapes and see how he uses a ball on a string and teaches the dog to focus on the ball. This then transitions into the dog looking for the ball during the heel,sit etc. If I am using the ball on string to build drive and then go into an obedience drill should I try and teach the dog to keep eye contact or look at my upper armpit for the ball. The problem to me seems to be the change in the dogs focus point... my eyes or the prey item. Just curious if these two methods are used at different times in different ways. Or if I need to chose to teach my dog to strictly focus on the handler or on the prey. It seems that during obedience handler focus would be the goal but during protection it would be more beneficial to have a prey item focused dog. Thanks for any clarification. I just want to make sure I don't try to teach my dog using to many different methods and confuse him.

In a trial, your dog will have to look up to your eyes or shoulder, whichever you prefer. If you reward your dog for looking at the ball then you are rewarding looking at the ball. If you reward the dog for looking at your eye or shoulders then the dog is getting his reward for giving you the behavior you will be using in trial.


The way I prefer to do it is to lure (what your doing with the flinks method. i tend to use food though so I can get more repititions in a faster time) and as a seperate exercise teaching and rewarding for looking at your eyes and away from the reward. As soon as I'm able to, I fade the luring and only use reward as a consequence.

I have a question about heeling as well. Im getting Kane (13 mo GSD)to start focusing while at my side then I know we start one step at a time. Should I use the "foose" command even if we arent yet taking even one step? How long should a dog hold eye contact before you move to other steps? He will sit in front with great eye contact and Im working at my left side now.
Just dont know if I should give him a command or not or how long he should hold eye contact before staking one step. Thanks!

Have him watch you, and you can jump up and down or hop in place next to him. If he stays still, and watches then start going forward.

Hello to all, have not posted for some time i hope all is well.
This was a very large post, though one of the best i have read through.
Alot of views and opinions.

I teach my dog to "watch", but i do not expect her to be completely riveted on me. Has anyone tried walking without looking where they are going? This is the opinion that i share, but please post arguments to my view.
My Doberman heals perfectly, and watches me mostly, but always has focus on me. I allow her to see where she is going and i believe she is more comfortable and confident with this.
I agree that in distractive environments, watching the handler completely, there is less chance of focusing on the distraction.
What do people think? Can there be an alternative?

Please post.
Thanks

Aaron

If The Heel command is to position and look in the eye, then what is a command to use when just walking on the leash outside of competion?

'Let's go' is my command to walk and don't pull. I have several walking commands that I use; 'on by', stop investigating/looking and walk with me; 'fuss', formal, competition heel; 'stay close', for off leash walking, means walk like you are on a 4' leash. I am also starting to teach sides, and going to attempt backward heeling.

I am sure there are others, but I tend to communicate with my dogs with my body language a lot; good idea if you are trying to train a dog fast, bad if you are trying to do Sch.

Oh and the way I taught eye contact was to split the exercise into two segments; one on the training field, one in the living room.

First segment is to build drive and focus as the video outlines. I try to make the focus for the ball extreme, with distractions.

Then, I get my clicker and treats (no ball) and with no command added, capture eye contact and build to long, deep stares, with drool running down the muzzle. Focus on me for the treat, with distractions.

Here is where it gets fuzzy. Take the ball, in the come-fore position, do a little focus work, then, well what I did was put it behind my back, slowly, so the chase drive is not triggered. You don't want to ruin all of your careful work!

Then wait.

All sorts of behaviours you will see, (Usually in reverse order learned) but eventually, they will look at you. Be ready, and bam the ball.

The rest is a snap. My dog now knows when the ball is out, focus on that. When the ball is not in sight, focus on me. Walking, standing still, across the room, across the field. After it clicks it is a matter of polish.

Hope this helps!