heh, I'm 50 )

I would add that if you want to train the "look" exercise, start close up, like 2-3 feet away and make it almost like a stare down game. And the entire duration where they are making eye contact calmly say "gooooood" or "gooood look".

The closer you are the less distractions come into play, over time you add distance, and you say "gooood" less often.

I didn't train it that way with my dogs but I helped a friend with his 2 dogs and it works.

But also, you need to train a "nope" (dont do that) before you start with distractions. You will need a correction when they look away.

That is why training the markers "good" & "nope" are So very important.

Make Sense?

Seeing as you have not done any marker training you could actually condition the dog to look at you while you train the markers using Michaels technique of "charging the mark".

The way I did it was using the food as a lure I made them follow my hand around in circles, figure8's the whole time saying the word "goood" a million times. When I released the food I say "yes" then I would abruptly stop and stand up straight with my hands down in front of me on to my sides.

They naturally look at your hands first, without saying a word I just waited for them to look at my face, the instant they gave me eye contact I marked "goooood" and jumped back into the lure game.

At the same time you are reinforcing the "goood" marker, it simply means 'your doing what I want keep doing it'.

The object of the exercise is them figuring out, to restart the game they have to look at your face not your hands.

You have a full grown pitbull though so before you try this you need the DVD Training with food and MAKE SURE you watch the part about how to deliver the food .... otherwise after 1 or 2 sessions you make not have any skin left on your fingers, or worse ..... stitches . )

If you do it this way, your dog will go everywhere looking up at you. Constantly lol, almost to the point it becomes spooky. But that is ultimate engagement/focus ... the goal. Once you have that attention span you can teach your dog anything and do it much faster.

Get that DVD it's the best investment you'll ever make.

Edited by Connie Sutherland (01/11/2013 10:23 AM)
Edit reason: fixed typo per poster

oops, I have a typo up there. It won't let me edit.
1st sentence should be
while YOU train the markers using Michaels technique of "charging the mark".
sorry


Note: Fixed

Edited by Connie Sutherland (01/11/2013 10:24 AM)
Edit reason: mod note inserted

Mod note: it didn't show because it has broken quote tags. I didn't fix it because you did below.


Edited by Connie Sutherland (01/11/2013 12:42 PM)
Edit reason: add mod not to explain invisible post

Thank you everyone for taking the time to help me out. It's truly appreciated. It sounds as though I need to buy a few DVD's. Marker, Obedience, and Training with food.

 Quote: RC Dennis

You have a full grown pitbull though so before you try this you need the DVD Training with food and MAKE SURE you watch the part about how to deliver the food .... otherwise after 1 or 2 sessions you make not have any skin left on your fingers, or worse ..... stitches . )

Fortunately I was able to teach her "gentle" when taking treats. I did this with a spoon and some baby food. The baby food was a HV treat so at first she would bite down on the spoon to get the treat. After saying "No...gentle" and "good girl" when she licked it. She eventually figured out that I wanted her to lick the spoon and everytime I see her getting too excited with getting the treat I say "gentle" and she slowly grabs it. My 7 yr old can give her a treat now. With that said, I'll probably wear gloves the first couple times I try this just in case her paws get in the mix

 Quote: Connie Sutherland

You can look at desensitizing a reactive dog as proofing for very high-level distraction (and proofing is part of every ob command's training).

That is, say you're proofing ob commands for distractions (and venue and distance).

I can't say I fully understand what "proofing" is as yet. I'm assuming its covered in the basic obedience DVD's. I think I'm getting the desensitizing part though. I've started to make it a point to see how reactive she gets to dogs and noises in the hallway. If she is non reactive I give her a treat. If she's reactive I say "watch me" and when she does she gets a treat. Hopefully this will help some.

Edited by Jevon Brookes (01/11/2013 11:44 AM)
Edit reason: Fixed it

Proofing for distraction really means desensitizing (gradually exposing) to distraction.

Proofing is the last part of training any command.

To proof an ob command for distraction, I gradually introduce venue changes, distance between the dog and me, and various distractions, in small enough steps so the dog still performs the command without being distracted from doing so.

So you can also think of the work of desensitizing a dog-reactive dog by working with him at the outside edge of his trigger zone as proofing that dog's ob for his highest-level distraction (dogs).

I'd start with either Power of Markers (very basic, solid beginning, for anyone) or Power of Food (the first of the Ellis series, for anyone who has some grasp of markers).

JMO!

Jevon;

As you get more familiar with training, you will learn that, in some places or situations, your dog may not perform tasks that you have trained and expect him to have mastered. The reason for this is that most of us do our training in a few specific venues.

"Proofing" is the act of testing your dog to make sure his OB is "generalized", meaning he will do it anywhere you command it, regardless of external influences.

To proof your sit, you would take the dog to a place where the dog is not used to doing training, and there are some distractions, and you would test the dog. If he repeatedly sits on command, regardless of how close you are to the distraction, the behavior is proofed. If he refuses or acts confused, you would need more generalizing and desensitizing in order to proof that command.

Edited by Duane Hull (01/11/2013 01:01 PM)
Edit reason: sp

 Quote: Duane Hull

Jevon;

As you get more familiar with training, you will learn that, in some places or situations, your dog may not perform tasks that you have trained and expect him to have mastered. The reason for this is that most of us do are training in a few specific venues.

"Proofing" is the act of testing your dog to make sure his OB is "generalized", meaning he will do it anywhere you command it, regardless of external influences.

Arguably the most neglected (and most important) part of ob training.

And it's the part that everyone is shocked about. "He never did that before!" or "But he ALWAYS obeys that at home." Ever hear that?

Sort of off the topic, just thought I would mention it. But it is a way of proofing at home. Getting them to respond in a heightened drive state.

When we go to the races I use a laser pointer to exercise, I put a long leash around my waist we walk around the infield and let them chase the light.

I noticed that their drive state was so heightened by the desire to get the light that they paid no attention to anything else around them. But they also would not respond to any commands, sit, down ... nothing, they just wanted that light.

So I figured out that if I could get them to perform in that high anxiety state of mind, then I may be able to get them to respond no matter what situation they are in.

It works. The light (chasing the light) is the reward. I let them chase it and bring it about 10 feet in front of me, then the light disappears, they stand there intensly looking for it then I give them a command and they have to perform for it to come back, the instant they do it I say the release "YES" and simultaneously the light comes back and they chase it.

1 drawback ..... don't do it everynight. If you do they will think the light is just out there and when they go out it is all they will focus on .... finding that light.

It actually took Fritzi a while before she figured out I was in control of the light. But it has helped in their response time to commands, she is much quicker to respond now even when there is no reward coming.


SEE NEXT POST ABOUT DANGERS OF LASER LIGHTS WITH DOGS

Edited by Connie Sutherland (01/12/2013 11:24 AM)
Edit reason: mod note inserted