I don't have time to read the entire article now, but I can explain how and why I did it.

When I originally read Patterson's book and tried his method, I immediately saw results. However, before long, Sadie ceased to progress. Through trial and error, I determined that the reason was the breaks between each track. Patterson explained that they were designed to give the dog a break in focus to refresh and regather. The problem for me was that my dog was checking out, and instead of being more focused on each subsequent track,she was more distracted.

To correct this, I combined the three into one. I started out with 10-15 steps, each baited and fairly close together. This way she starts out focusing on each step and developing that desired slight headswing. After this section, I began spacing the baits out over three steps to increase the distance for her (Patterson's second track). In the third section, I began randomly baiting, as per his third track. According to Patterson, by the time the dog gets to the third track, he should be more focused and intent than on the first.

This worked extremely well for my dog, and sure enough, her tracking was better at the end of the track. I then set to work extending the track, with the ultimate goal being regulation length. I was alsodetermined to getthe same results, regardless of the venue or terrain. We started adding distance and tracking in new fields with varying conditions.

Over time, we have progressed. Most recently, we are starting on a baited pad, as she still wants to blow past the pad if it is not baited. I then go 7-10 paces without food, and she has learned to start tracking in the absence of food. At this point, I do a max of five baited steps to get her to settle in and check each footstep. The rest of the first 100m leg is random baited, with an occasional bait patch (3-5 consecutive baited steps) to make sure she stays thorough.

After the first turn, I am currently going 10-15 steps between baits, to increase distance. Halfway through this second 100m leg, I lay the first article.

After the second turn, I use a few baited steps to help pull her through the turn, then I cease baiting. I go 10 paces, article, 15 paces, article, then 25 paces to the end article. Each article is rewarded with a higher-value food reward (ck jerky, versus training treats that were used to bait the track).

Most of these are principles that I learned from Patterson's book, and there is some of my TD's theory mixed in. Sadie is now progressing much better than she was when we were adhering strictly to any single methodology.

I wish I typed as fast as you. I just finished replying to the post that you deleted!

 Quote: Duane Hull

I wish I typed as fast as you. I just finished replying to the post that you deleted!

OH! I saw you weren't online so I deleted it, since it didn't follow. I can put it back!


ETA
I did put it back, a few posts back.

Edited by Connie Sutherland (05/01/2013 11:35 PM)
Edit reason: eta

 Quote: Duane Hull

I don't have time to read the entire article now, but I can explain how and why I did it.

When I originally read Patterson's book and tried his method, I immediately saw results. However, before long, Sadie ceased to progress. Through trial and error, I determined that the reason was the breaks between each track. Patterson explained that they were designed to give the dog a break in focus to refresh and regather. The problem for me was that my dog was checking out, and instead of being more focused on each subsequent track,she was more distracted.

To correct this, I combined the three into one. I started out with 10-15 steps, each baited and fairly close together. This way she starts out focusing on each step and developing that desired slight headswing. After this section, I began spacing the baits out over three steps to increase the distance for her (Patterson's second track). In the third section, I began randomly baiting, as per his third track. According to Patterson, by the time the dog gets to the third track, he should be more focused and intent than on the first.

This worked extremely well for my dog, and sure enough, her tracking was better at the end of the track. I then set to work extending the track, with the ultimate goal being regulation length. I was alsodetermined to getthe same results, regardless of the venue or terrain. We started adding distance and tracking in new fields with varying conditions.

Over time, we have progressed. Most recently, we are starting on a baited pad, as she still wants to blow past the pad if it is not baited. I then go 7-10 paces without food, and she has learned to start tracking in the absence of food. At this point, I do a max of five baited steps to get her to settle in and check each footstep. The rest of the first 100m leg is random baited, with an occasional bait patch (3-5 consecutive baited steps) to make sure she stays thorough.

After the first turn, I am currently going 10-15 steps between baits, to increase distance. Halfway through this second 100m leg, I lay the first article.

After the second turn, I use a few baited steps to help pull her through the turn, then I cease baiting. I go 10 paces, article, 15 paces, article, then 25 paces to the end article. Each article is rewarded with a higher-value food reward (ck jerky, versus training treats that were used to bait the track).

Most of these are principles that I learned from Patterson's book, and there is some of my TD's theory mixed in. Sadie is now progressing much better than she was when we were adhering strictly to any single methodology.

So the three tracks here (at 8.1), you combined into one? http://airedale-nawata.tripod.com/nawata/TrackingForAiredales.pdf

Same order, but one track, no break?

 Quote: Connie Sutherland

"Your dog missing pieces of food means he/she is following scent, not food. You want this" (Katie)

This is the point I originally agreed with. Food is the motivation. The dog follows the scent of disturbed grass to access the food.

What I'm teaching my dog now is that the ultimate goal is to find the articles. She follows the track to find the articles (and thus obtain a HV reward), and is motivated to follow the track by finding LV food treats along the way. I don't want the ultimate goal to be the LV food, as she will then merely be searching for food and lose focus on what the goal actually is.

When we go for the TR1, I want her to follow the track to find the articles (in hopes that she will get a HV reward).

 Quote: Connie Sutherland

Same order, but one track, no break?

Zactly

 Quote: Duane Hull

 Quote: Connie Sutherland

"Your dog missing pieces of food means he/she is following scent, not food. You want this" (Katie)

This is the point I originally agreed with.

How does it tie in with

"Of course I would be concerned if my dog was skipping multiple baits" ?

That was a question. Maybe an argument.

Not a quarrel.

Some dogs get more self reward from the track itself. It's just a rewarding behavior to them.
One of my GSDs started skipping bait early. It didn't bother me simply because he was still putting his nose in every foot print. If he would have been missing footsteps all together I would wonder why.
Pushing the dog to fast? Bait is to high value to concentrate on the track itself? Bait is to low level value and the dog ignores it for the track? That's not a bad thing as long as the dog keeps a deep nose.

 Quote: Connie Sutherland

 Quote: Duane Hull

 Quote: Connie Sutherland

"Your dog missing pieces of food means he/she is following scent, not food. You want this" (Katie)

This is the point I originally agreed with.

How does it tie in with

"Of course I would be concerned if my dog was skipping multiple baits" ?

Steve and I had gone off on a tangent. The conversation went from

 Quote: Duane Hull

The dog is following the scent of crushed grass, but his motivation is still to find the food.

Now that she is more educated, serious, and focused, and there is much less bait on the tracks, she misses very little, but does still miss a piece on occasion. I just pick it up and put it my baitbag.

to this

 Quote: steve strom

but missing anything on a track is at the least, not ideal and pulling her away from it when she becomes intent on finding it sure sounds counter productive to me

They may not be grading themselves, but you should be as far as why bait was missed. Its a way to gauge where your training is and just how capable of running a track your dog is

I may have been guilty of making a atatement that doesn't seem to tie in, but what I was trying to say all along is that a missed piece of bait here or there doesn't mean that the dog and/or trainer are lacking or failing. IMO, an increased desire to track and continued improvement in ability to track indicate that the effort is not a complete bust.

When all is said and done, I believe that the dog should be following the scent and not simply be searching for food. While ambling down the track skipping over baits is certainly not desirable, an occasional missed bait by a dog that is otherwise tracking properly is no reason to abandon sound training techniques or discount obvious improvement.