Although I did keep a drag line on my pup at all times I did not tether him to me...and I really wish now that I had.

From everything I've read there seems no good reason not to do it and so many good reasons for it.

Looking back, and knowing what I know now about pups, I see it was one of my bigger handler errors.

 Quote: Sarah Morris

Looking back, and knowing what I know now about pups, I see it was one of my bigger handler errors.

me too...

With all due respect, I didn't insinuate that the dog should have free run of the entire house in an unsupervised state. You can use baby gates to keep him out of areas where he shouldn't go, such as the bedrooms, etc and keep doors closed in rooms where he shouldn't enter. I've housebroken and trained more than a dozen dogs in my life that all were excellent companion dogs with excellent house manners and had great temperments and not one ever had any hip or joint problems, including GSDs, Dobermans, Weimaraners, Labradors, Golden Retrievers, English Pointers and Vizslas that I have never kept on a leash while they're in my home. You can keep a leash on the pup so he's easier to grab if he gets into something that he shouldn't get into, but I clearly do not see the need to have the dog permanently affixed to you every step that he takes in the house. He needs to learn to settle down and relax in the house and if he's constantly tethered he won't settle down. I settle my pups down by giving them a bone to chew or a squeaky toy to play with so that they have something interesting to concentrate on that they like and they look forward to time in the house as a "quiet time".

It is vitally important for large breed pups to have the ability to run in a fenced-in yard a number of times a day. Constantly controlled on-the-leash "exercise" is not exercise for a large breed pup. There is no way you can tire out a large breed pup by simply walking him a few times a day at a slow human pace. It may work nicely for a toy breed or a non-energetic medium sized dog, but it absolutely doesn't work for a large breed pup. They need to run to stretch their muscles and ligaments and develop good muscle tone.Their bones will not be hurt by allowing them to run at their own pace. In fact, if you keep a large breed pup basically sedentary and crated so that he may have trouble fully stretching out and allow him a few human walks a day you are doing a huge diservice to the dog. Also, each pup (even pups from the same litter) have distinctly different exercise needs and some very energetic pups need a lot more exercise to tire them out than laid back types require. For example, my 6 mos. old GSD pup requires far less exercise than my 4 mos. old Vizsla pup. My GSD is very laid back where the Vizsla is a very high energy pup. I'm raising them both at the same time and need to accommodate their exercise schedules to each dog. By the time they are ready to go to bed at night, both are tired and ready to go to sleep. I also have 2 adult dogs (Weimaraner 11 years old and Labrador 3 years old) that have their own exercise needs as well and I make sure that they get their exercise too.

Large breed pups shouldn't be allowed to jump in and out of pick-up truck tailgates until they are over a year old (I don't allow mine to attempt this until they are closer to 2 years old) to prevent joint problems. Every GSD breeder and Lab breeder that I know stresses against young pups jumping on or off of high objects such as a tailgates. This is common sense in my opinion. However, I am not aware of any veterinarian or GSD breeder who discourages pups from running in a fenced yard environment. We're not talking about having them run for miles at a time. Pups will run for awhile, get tired and then lay down and chew something for a period of time and then they'll run again. They won't constantly run for more than a few minutes at a time. They should have the option to do this though for their physical and mental development.

Large breed pups aren't for everyone. They require a lot of human interaction for the first year especially so that you can set the ground rules for them to become a part of your family. I'm not sure how much experience that you've had with raising pups in the past, but starting out with an energetic GSD if you don't have a lot of dog experience may not be a good idea. A GSD can be a ery dominant dog and a novice dog owner is not a good fit for most GSDs. A fenced yard is very important for this breed and for all large breed pups for that matter. The fenced yard also makes raising them a whole lot easier because you won't have to watch them every second if you put them outside in a safe fenced environment.

WOW...thanks for clarifying.

Different methods work for different people.

 Quote: Carol Boche

WOW...thanks for clarifying.

snort ...(sorry, I couldn't resist)

 Quote: Christine Garrit

I'm not sure how much experience that you've had with raising pups in the past, but starting out with an energetic GSD if you don't have a lot of dog experience may not be a good idea.

Yeah Carol...better stick to Mals.

(I couldn't resist, either!)

 Quote: christine garrit

I'm not sure how much experience that you've had with raising pups in the past, but starting out with an energetic GSD if you don't have a lot of dog experience may not be a good idea. A GSD can be a ery dominant dog and a novice dog owner is not a good fit for most GSD's.

Sorry, I missed this part.

Christine, do you know what a Belgian Malinois is? I do not need GSD temperament explained to me.

I don't know if you have seen my signature picture but ALL are my dogs, the Bloodhound was an adult (store bought I heard someone accuse me of once) when I got him, as the Dutch....the others were pups or very young, as well as the litters of hunting and shooting Labs and GSP's we raised.

ANY dog with intense drive is NOT for a NOVICE. I have seen Labs so drivey they would make a pet owner or hobby hunter or even the most serious hunter cry their eyes out (see lab below).

I have seen excellent novice handlers with well bred GSD's (Imports, and a few American) with the correct drives for the job we do (which is resource to assist in saving human life).

And then I have seen people with s**t bred GSD's (Import and Americant too) that could not find a biscuit in the back of a patrol car, but they think they are wonderful and trainers tell them that to get the almighty dollar out of them.......

It is about commitment, time, money, energy and dedication.....so a novice with the correct attitude and willingness to learn CAN own a high drive dog.
I spent over a year watching, working with and researching before I got my first MAL and now there are litters planned.

So please, do not try and explain to me how to raise a high drive, larger dog. All mine are quite healthy, athletic and muscle tone is excellent and I did the tether thing......oh, and certified!!!

UGH..hence the reason I said different methods for different people.....but I have been reading your posts and it is more like you are trying to come in here and in 10 posts tell people it should be your way or no way......


I am outta here for a while....too much "posture" for me, AND YES I AM DOING IT TOO, just wanted to clarify that so no one thought they needed to tell me that.

um,,,welcome to the board Christine?????????????

Christine, Chritine, christine.

I need Ambers ability with words so as not to offend.

I guess the best advice I can offer is read read read. You just might want to tweek your training methods.

Christine, How much experience with working line dogs do you have? You list breeds but then make a very wide statement about dominance in GSDs? Sorry, dominance is not a breed specific trait, it is a temperament trait. Having experience with one or two dogs of a breed does not make anyone an expert on that breed. You may be an expert on your dogs of those breeds but there are different types and lines to pretty much every breed on the planet. There are traits and characteristic of certain lines and types within a breed, but there tends to be a lot of variation in temperament and type.

Tethering is in no way shape or form a punishment or detriment to a dog.

Are you a veterinarian? I see statements and comments regarding what is best for large dogs etc based on growth and muscle tone and whatnot. Done clinical studies have you? I do not allow young dogs, especially not large breed dogs to run and jump and frolic and leap. Puppies and adult dogs are very capable of hurting themselves "at their own pace" and left to their own devices. I certainly don't deprive my dogs or pups of exercise but I do supervise all exercise and play stop dangerous/potentially harmful activities.

I'm not trying to be mean here but you came into this post on a soap box and stating some rather interesting ideas concerning puppies.

Reasons to tether a puppy:

Makes house training a lot easier and faster, preventing messes by allowing you to have a constant eye on your pup.

Creates a very strong bond with you and your dog/pup.

Helps as a foundation to leash manners

Prevents injury to your dog/puppy

Many more things. Tethering is EXCELLENT for all ages and stages of dogs. Tethering is not a substitue for exercise, it is a training, bonding, and house training method that benefits all involved - the pup/dog, the owner, the innocent bystanding floor rugs, and table legs.

When I am still for a while and the pup is out of the crate I give them a chewy or a stimulating toy. There is no lack of mental stimulation.