" I am completely confident that I can get a dog to do whatever I want on leash with a properly fitted buckle collar and no treats unless I'm teaching a trick. The correction should come from your body language not from a foreign object around your dogs neck or face. Any questions?"
"New research in dog behavior has shown motivational as oppossed to compulsion is more successful."
If you do not use food how are your methods motivational? I think most of us use marker based training here with corrections only when needed. Can you post a video on how I can get my pit mix to down under distrartions with body language? Exactly what do I do...stand on one foot with a stern face and tug 3 times on his flat collar?
Reg: 07-13-2005
Posts: 31571
Loc: North-Central coast of California
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Quote: brent petersen
" I am completely confident that I can get a dog to do whatever I want on leash with a properly fitted buckle collar and no treats unless I'm teaching a trick. The correction should come from your body language not from a foreign object around your dogs neck or face. Any questions?"
"New research in dog behavior has shown motivational as oppossed to compulsion is more successful."
If you do not use food how are your methods motivational? I think most of us use marker based training here with corrections only when needed. Can you post a video on how I can get my pit mix to down under distrartions with body language? Exactly what do I do...stand on one foot with a stern face and tug 3 times on his flat collar?
I feel pretty confident about marker training. But I too want to see video of how "motivational" training is done with no reward (no rewards except for when training "tricks," that is).
Forget about the prong. I just want to see the body language motivational training of a regular old command such as the one Brent describes.
I'm Jillian Blesser, I just haven't been on so long I was unable to use my old account. Anyway, upon reviewing my origanal post and the "responses" I still agree with myself. I've been training dogs for 14 years now. I have only been biten once, but it was by a Chow when I was 5. I must be doing something correctly. I have rehabilitated aggressive Pits (which is some of the most rewarding dog work I've done), I have trained countless pets whose energy level and reactive nature was going to land them in a shelter. I have done most of this work for free. The only benefit is knowing they get a second, third or fourth chance. So attack me if you will, but ask the judges what they want to see. A dog who hesitates out of uncertainty and fear of correction or one who is so happy to work that his tail is carried high and has a spring in his step? I don't do Schutzhund, so we are clear. I do, however, do dectection of many sorts, rehabilitation and lots of obedience.
I know adding pain (pinch collar) during moments of excitement or aggression makes the problem worse. Redirection and going back laying the ground work to find what it is that makes a dog WANT to work may take longer but the effects will stay. Pinch collars do give a person who lacks physical strength more confidence that if the dog lunges they have a chance at slowing them down. I don't see any real benefits otherwise. New research in dog behavior has shown motivational as oppossed to compulsion is more successful.
And if you have done any actual reading here you would see we all use motivation. Correction is actually a small part of any training we talk about here. You also don't train psd or real working dogs. Before you tell someone to use a choke chain then join a board and bash a prong collar, do some research. and if you have watched some of our training videos, none of our dogs are fearful or hesitate because of correction. Quite the opposite. No one here would advocate trying to hurt and scare any dog as a way of training.
Reg: 12-06-2010
Posts: 721
Loc: British Columbia, Canada
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I really want to see this 'body language'! Please post a video. I would like to see how you would use body language on my 80 lb. adolescent shepherd cross when he sees a puppy (that he has decided is an enemy) half a block away. The body language I use is to step on his leash right near his head so he has to flop into a down where he can't pull me off my feet (my version of a correction for pure bad neighbourliness). Mind you, he had graduated from his prong (I was just starting to relax...). I might have to re-think that. He seems to have matured into a new stage of asshatted reactivity.
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