I don't know how in the world it is possible to ever treat them if they can walk in from a dip and sleep on a new bed and then get re-infected. Is one supposted to throw away all area rugs and upholstered items in which they have come in contact?

From Dr Foster Smith:
The mites prefer to live on the dog, but will live for several days off of the host in the environment. In cool moist environments, they can live for up to 22 days. At normal room temperature in a home, they will live from 2 to 6 days. Because of the mite's ability to survive off the host, dogs can become infected without ever coming into direct contact with an infected animal.

 Quote: barbara schuler

I don't know how in the world it is possible to ever treat them if they can walk in from a dip and sleep on a new bed and then get re-infected. Is one supposted to throw away all area rugs and upholstered items in which they have come in contact?

From Dr Foster Smith:
"In addition to treating the dog, the environment such as the dog's bedding can be treated with a residual insecticide (e.g.; permethrin

One more thing to discuss with the allergist when I call her in the AM. Thanks Theresa. I asked her about treating the bedding, etc... during our first meeting and she down-played its importance.

My male Kodi just got over having sarcoptic mange and we treated it with two shots of ivermectin in the off label recommendations, given two weeks apart.
I also threw out bedding and wash the dog blankets regularly.

We are now using Revolution for our monthly heartworm preventative hoping to also knock out an possibility for reinfection.

So far, I have not seen any resurgence of the mites. I do believe he had the mites because he too had the tattered ears.
However,in addition, I am suspecting environmental allergies for Kodi, because he does bite his paws and I can tell he itches a bit still.
I know our pollen counts are extremely high right now, about as high as they get, so eventually, I will likely have him intradermally tested.

I would give the Ivermectin a try Barbara, if your Vet agrees, I would do that for sure.
Where I live, one shot of Ivermectin cost $25.

FWIW, I would try this first before starting an elimination diet.
If that doesn't work, I would then get the intradermal skin testing done. Then lastly, if all that doesn't change things, as a last resort, I would then try the elimination diet.
JMO.

This Product Has: permethrin.



bioSpot inverted Carpet Spray

Use Inverted Carpet Spray for rugs, furniture, carpets and drapes. Controls adults, eggs and larvae for up to 7 months. For yard or outdoor areas try Yard & Garden Spray. This easy-mix concentrate uses a hose-end sprayer. Treats 5,000 sq ft for up to 4 weeks.

Active Ingredients: Inverted Carpet Spray - linalool, nylar, and permethrin. Yard & Garden Spray - permethrin.

Dr Foster Smith:

Trying to make a diagnosis of canine scabies can be very frustrating. The standard method is to perform a skin scraping and then identify the mite under the microscope. Unfortunately, on average, only twenty percent of the infected dogs will show Sarcoptes mites on any given scraping. Therefore, if a dog has a positive skin scraping, the diagnosis is confirmed but a negative scraping does not rule out sarcoptic mange. Therefore, most diagnoses are made based on history and response to treatment for scabies.

Sarcoptic mange is a somewhat common infection and many cases have often been misdiagnosed as severe atopy (inhalant allergy). Dr Foster Smith:
Any time we see a dog who does not have a prior history of allergies and develops severe itching, or if the itching is not seasonal but year-round, we have to suspect canine scabies.

The itching seems to be much worse in warm conditions such as indoors or near a stove or heat vent. If the infection goes untreated or is mistakenly treated as an allergy, the skin may darken due to the constant irritation, and the surrounding lymph nodes may become enlarged.

 Quote: joyce salazar

I would give the Ivermectin a try Barbara, if your Vet agrees, I would do that for sure.
Where I live, one shot of Ivermectin cost $25.

FWIW, I would try this first before starting an elimination diet.
If that doesn't work, I would then get the intradermal skin testing done. Then lastly, if all that doesn't change things, as a last resort, I would then try the elimination diet.
JMO.

She was very open to the ivermectin; the only reason we didn't go there was due to treating both dogs and the concern about the "lineage" of our other dog, Sadie - hence, the sulphur dips. However, Mara gave a link earlier and I've already ordered the testing products needed to have a DNA sample sent off and test Sadie.

My thought right now is to have another conversation with the vet and get her input on trying the ivermectin on both dogs, AND if needed, treating the house. (I'll be a bit frustrated if this should have been being done all along, but I'll cross that bridge when we get there.)

My hesitation about the dips is the liquid is very, very hard to get all the way down to the skin - it has a tendancy to almost roll off the coat. I've used wash cloths to work it into the coat, but I can't help but wonder if you miss a critical spot...

With that said, there are no bare spots or sores on either dog!! I'm getting more confused right now. Nothing is providing a strong indication of how to proceed...

Groan.

 Quote: Joyce Salazar

I would give the Ivermectin a try Barbara, if your Vet agrees, I would do that for sure.
Where I live, one shot of Ivermectin cost $25.

Then that vet is making a better mark up on that shot than on most vaccinations...

Mini rant here - 250ml bottle of ivermectin as a sheep drench? $18. The same amount of ivermectin in name brand HW preventitve for dogs? $200. <insert head bang here>