Thanks for all of the great replys. I feel much better about the pup now. I thought he was being a big chicken at first also or that he would be a "fear biter", but I think he just needs a little socialization. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Sandhi: I hate to admit it, but I think you lost me a little towards the end. I'm just not that familar with what you were saying with the neutralization. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

the sequence for desensitization: approach the problem with these different types of movement; parallel the problem (for example, a dog unknown to your dog), use a slight z-pattern until the dog is closer to the problem without giving the reaction you don't want. also, you can telescope toward the problem. the point where your dog gives you the unwanted response is called the threshhold of avoidance in behavioral lingo (sounds like a moody blues album) - this threshhold is where you stop moving toward the problem. move away until you get the desired response. then move toward the problem again, and away. very quickly, the threshhold improves, until you can get very close to dog without the unwanted reaction. the third way is a horseshoe pattern where you approach on a curve, with the problem at the apex of the curve, where the unwanted reaction is most likely to occur. as the problem is expressed you are moving away on the same curve. repeat until dog is no longer sensitive to the problem and will walk right past without unwanted reaction. moving straight toward the dog is the most exciting of these movements. this is where strong dogs need the most practice. Soft dogs do well with parallel, then horseshoe, then telescoping. most dogs can overcome most sensitivities in this way, especially young dogs.