I have researched the archives to find the answer to these questions, but did not find it.
I am a volunteer foster home for a local golden retriever rescue group. I own 2 goldens and an elderly cocker/retriever mix, and care for a new foster dog (one at a time) about once a month. Up until my latest foster, all of my fosters have gotten along very well with my dogs after a very gradual introduction process extending over several weeks. (Even after a month with me, my latest foster hasn’t met my dogs without a barrier between them based on growling and snarling in the first couple of weeks.)
Generally the dogs in the program have no history or signs of aggression, but as a general practice, I think I’d feel better by using plastic basket muzzles on the dogs for the first few times they have access to each other. It’s important for me to learn as much as I can about each foster dog so they can be placed with the right family and the dog’s behavior in the presence of other dogs is an important factor in selecting the right family for him.

My questions: 1. Is this a good idea to use plastic basket muzzles for their initial introductions?
2. For people who have used muzzles on their dogs- how did you get the dog used to wearing it?

I would not reccomend the use of muzzles. I think if your going to introduce them, it should be done by you and someone you know who is not going to create tension for the dogs. Keep them on loose lines (lines are in case they need to be seperated quickly not to be held tight which will cause the dog to "stiffen" up) The biggest issue I see with people is they try and get the dogs to "be friends" by keeping the leads tight and making the dogs meet face to face, eye to eye. IMO, dogs get to know one another by sniffing butts (sorry, no other way to put it ;-) Eye contact is by far the biggest challenge to a dog so making them meet eye to eye is a mistake.
Most "fights" are pretty much harmless to the dogs, mostly establishing who is who and not causing damage to either dog. If the handlers stay calm and assertive, intro the dogs and let them meet the way they naturally would. Make sure you have access to the leads and DO NOT just put them in an area loose to work it out on their own. I think that the use of muzzles may create unwanted tension between the dogs especially if they are not used to them. The dog will be stressed before even starting the intro.
Just FYI, I do not introduce my dogs to other dogs. They are social with other dogs and have learned that I am the leader which makes me way more fun and they pretty much tolerate or just flat ignore another strange dogs presence. They are allowed to be with one another for a certain amount of time during the day but pretty much spend their time working or playing with me or in day runs or crates. Just my opinion and someone else may see it differently. Good Luck <img src="http://www.leerburg.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.leerburg.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I think that if you're volunteering/fostering/a dog owner yourself, your intuition is the best guidline. Read their body language. You're going to know if a dog is likely to react badly, and in this case keep the foster separate from your own dogs. I agree with Carol, in that a muzzle isn't a great idea. The drag-line is good, but then again if the dogs are fighting it's too late. Best to keep a keen eye on them. And give them something to do, like going for a walk, so they're not just in a face-off.

I do have a muzzle for my dog, and he didn't have a problem getting used to it. Mind you, it's a gorgeous leather open-face training muzzle (ordered through Leerburg) that allows him to be sidetracked by treats, lol...and I certainly can't say that this would be a good choice if you're trying to prevent a bite...but my reason for opting for this style was to prevent strangers from treating my dog like a long-lost friend, if you know what I mean. Nothing like a muzzle to make them think twice before rushing up!

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....... I think I’d feel better by using plastic basket muzzles on the dogs for the first few times they have access to each other. It’s important for me to learn as much as I can about each foster dog......

I do some shelter work and some rescue work, but that doesn't mean my feeling about this is universal. It's just MHO.

My feeling is that I'm not going to learn much about a dog by observing his/her actions and demeanor with a muzzle on. And with an unaccustomed muzzle........... even less.

Have you read this? http://www.leerburg.com/introducingdogs.htm

There's a PodCast available on the same page.

I'm in week two or three of introducing a rescue to my GSD and Pug, and I again followed Ed's protocol exactly.

If you don't have crates, I would strongly recommend that you get them. <img src="http://www.leerburg.com/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Cynthia's suggestion about a walk is one I follow all the time: After the dogs are familiar with each other (which might take a loooong time, and that's fine; some dogs have to be separated forever), I do separate walks with each so the excitement level is lower, then a walk with one on each side of me, walking along briskly and with each one heeling (or at least no dog ahead of me).

I understand that you don't have a lifetime to introduce them when you do foster work, but I still think that the introduction should be very slow. Days of being crated except for exercise (lots of exercise) can give the foster a feeling of security as well as a sense of who the pack leader is. The foster who is fresh from the upheaval of a rescue and/or a shelter is generally not at his best, and a few days of calm safety is a good way to lower anxiety.

JMO.

Wow! I was going to ask what kind of muzzles to get for 2 of my Bouviers that get into scraps once in a while. To say dogs that fight don't cause much damage.....HUH!? My 2yr old intact male who is from very strong French Ring titled lines, and my sons neutered male who is from decent working lines have gotten into it 4 times in 2 years. The cheapest one was where all the wounds on my sons dog were subcutaneous and I was able to suture him up at home. The one a few months ago cost me about $800!

My sons dog was a voluntary rescue from someone that should never have been allowed to buy the dog in the 1st place. She was a 69 year old woman that lived in a little apartment with no yard that wanted a dog to intimidate other people and dogs. At 2, the dog had probably only come into contact with 2 or 3 men! The dog had NO leadership. When my son had to move for college, we took him. The dog was trained as a pup by a very top end trainer. Once in a while, he seems like he does not know how to act, alpha or omega, and will start crap with my male. My male is very laid back, but when challenged,...lets just say he has never been bitten! Luckily, I had trained my male to out on his tug and have been able to out him during scuffles. Last week, he did not want to out and I really had to get physically involved and take risks.

Since the fights occur when my sons dog is unsure how he is supposed to act, believe me I have tried to show him his place, it is almost predictable. If I was to let them out on the field to play by chasing this toy that puts my dog into prey, my sons dog will act "goofy" and "try" to play. My dog plays very roughly. When my sons dog gives him that "look" or takes a bite at him, my dog acts like "Oh goodie, we are gonna play hard". When my dog does not act as my sons dog expects, submission, the fight is on.

SO....If I muzzled them both and put out the giant ball that they "play soccer" with, if they got into it there would be less damage. Also, wouldn't they "work things out" if they were left to go at it with the muzzles on?

Need some help here as I hate having to deal with this.

Tony

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......If I muzzled them both and put out the giant ball that they "play soccer" with, if they got into it there would be less damage. Also, wouldn't they "work things out" if they were left to go at it with the muzzles on?.....Need some help here as I hate having to deal with this.....Tony

The dogs don't work it out. The pack leader does. I would *separate them*.

I'd listen to and read this:
http://www.leerburg.com/introducingdogs.htm
There's a PodCast available on the same page.

You are correct that very bad damage, physical and other, can result from a dog fight........ including "risks" you mentioned to yourself and other humans who might intervene.

And letting them "work it out" is not what a pack leader does. Period.

That's just my opinion. I decide whether aggression is allowed in my house; the dogs do NOT.

These dogs need to be separated, IMO, and training done with each one. Have you read the Leerburg articles about aggression and dominance?

I'd scroll down on this list http://www.leerburg.com/articles.htm
to the big red title, "Dominant and Aggressive Dog Problems."

Thanks Connie, that is pretty much what I thought. The idea of letting them "work it out" with muzzles came from a very good obedience trainer. She has not done any Schutzhund or other sports of that type which may or may not influence her ideas.

Does anyone think that this situation can EVER be resolved short of keeping them under watchful eye and eliminating the situations that have caused the fights. 99% of the time, they are fine together. They will lay next to each other and not give any notice to each other. Is there a way to introduce a controlled situation to teach them to Play together? When the offender shows aggression, give his a correction that fits the aggression? Would this some day make it so they could play together without fighting?

I will read the articles you mentioned.

Thanks again.

Tony