Early in the video The First Steps of Defense, the topic of locked-in-prey is introduced. In this segment there is a mostly black coated GSD tied out, with its handler behind him standing by the post. The helper (I believe Kevin) has a sleeve on the ground close to the dog but not within its reach.
I realize most situations present unique problems requiring the helper to think on his feet in order to help the dog overcome them. I am wondering if anyone may know how to handle such a situation once the prey lock is broken and the dog shows defense. Should the helper kick the sleeve to the dog, run away, lay down and roll onto his back, etc? Any thoughts or experience are welcomed.
Please PM me if this specific topic is a bit too sensitive to discuss in the open.
I wouldn't kick the sleeve away. It will only serve to put the dog back into prey. As the helper I would move in a circular direction AWAY from the dead sleeve while keeping the dog in defense. Once the dog is completely focused on me only, then I allow the defense to drive me away. The handler should prevent the dog from getting the sleeve once the decoy is gone.
Again, I haven't seen the video so I'm not sure what you are referring to. By your post I would react as I have written.
OK, I can picture that. It almost looked like a prey guarding exercise, but the dog did not have possession of the prey.
From your post, Howard, it sounds to me as though your approach in this situation is to teach the dog to NOT focus on the sleeve but rather on you (the helper) instead; which may have been exactly what I was seeing on screen but unable to interpret on my own, thanks.
In a nutshell, yes. I really prey driven dog will take some doing to switch into defense if he's not genetically disposed. To get him to switch while a prey item is present may cause the decoy to put too much pressure on the dog to soon. You have to set up the training to win, not ruin the dog. It all begins with baby steps so the dog learns and becomes comfortable switching drive.
Personally, I like the dog hitting a covert sleeve and doing muzzle attacks before a lot of defense work is done. This way you can comfortably take any obvious equipment out of the picture and get the dog to focus more on what you want rather than the sleeve. I don't want to have to come at the dog like a madman to get him into defense. I prefer the subtle movements and body language to turn him on, then allow him to releive stress by muzzle hit or bite on hidden sleeve.
I agree with Howard on this one. With some dogs that are truly locked in prey you have to put to much pressure on them to get them to switch gears and it's better for the dog in the long run to do it in a way that your not going to cause a negative reaction to bitework.
Yes of course, that goes without saying. I never want a negative situation in my training and I always try to set the dog up for success. My next question is, how do you train a dog to change focus to the man from a prey item? Is the answer to this question simply a matter of proper training (appropriate to the specific dog) in defense?
Simply remove the prey item, and do not create a lot of prey movements (Decoy) when working the dog. Each dog is different and this is where a good decoy really shines. He must be able to read the dog and see how he is feeling via body language. If the dog is obviously uncomfortable, help him out by switching back to prey momentarily then change posture again. Through experience, the dog will learn that although he may be uncomfortable in defense, it's not going to kill him. He should gain strength/confidence as the training progresses. Obviously, he has to always win.
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