Don't give him too much cognitive credit. He's a smart dog, but he's still a dog. When you ask him to drop, and give a treat or toy, he is getting that item FOR dropping. His thinking isn't, "I stole this, and now that I have stolen it he's giving me a treat to give it back" it's "I have a toy in my mouth, but if I drop this toy I can have that toy/treat! Ok!"

You issue a command (Drop) and then you reinforce (reward/correct) compliance or noncompliance. It's that simple. Don't add the history of where he got the "toy" that's in his mouth. I guarantee you he won't be thinking about that if he drops it and doesn't get a reward, he'll be thinking "I did what you said and you didn't follow through on your promise" -- and he'll be right.

If you want to play you can. Giving him the toy is a reward. Playing is also a reward. Do you WANT to play with him? In all likelihood you'll have fun if you do.

You initiate play by bringing the toy and offering it up. Imperitive in this process is that you do not chase him when he "steals" something. If you can't correct him with a leash pop and a "no", just ignore him, go get a toy, approach him offering the toy. Sure, he grabbed something he shouldn't have. Then, later, you initiated play with a fun toy.

Don't give your dog too much credit for being able to think long term. Remember that it took him 30 repitions to learn that when you said "Sit" you meant "put your butt on the ground" -- outthinking our dogs gets us into trouble.

 Quote: aric_stack

I can't get much work done between ball tosses; He's back too quickly.

If you are trying to get work done, then I would crate the dog, get your work done and then spend time with your dog.
Trying to work and have the dog (who is known to find things to entertain hinself) out may be part of the problem.

When we say play or work with your dog, we mean exactly that. Go out and spend 100% of the time you have set aside for your dog, with your dog. Not trying to water plants, mow the lawn, wash the car or whatever. That will come with time, where your dog can be out with you while you work and not destroy things, but you must first teach your dog that it will get your undivided attention at least for a while everyday.
It is really important that the dog know you will engage him in a game of fetch and he will not have to wait for you to finish something each time he comes back.

It is kind of like telling a child, "just a minute" everytime they come to you and want to do something, pretty soon they will find something else to do.

I would really start there. One half to 1 hour in the morning and One half to 1 hour at night just doing something with the dog with no distractions for you.

 Quote: jinn schmitz

He gives you the stolen item, and in return for "giving back" the object he isn't allowed to have, you give him the kong.

See, this is a great example. Jinn is dead on about approach, but her wording here will lead to confusion. You're not rewarding the dog for giving back an object he isn't allowed to have, but for giving you what he HAS. See the distinction?

 Quote:

I do see what you mean by seeing this method as just rewarding the dog for having the stolen object by giving him something else. It's worked for my dog. I've also corrected if I catch my dog in the act of grabbing a "bad" object - I have a can of pennies that I will shake at her when I see her go for (not act interested in, but actually try to snatch) something she can't have and she's associated the can with taking those objects. I've been chewed-sock-free for over 14 months! LOL. ;3

You're spot-dead-right-on about the timing. You must correct as they take the object. within about a second and a half of them picking it up.