I know there have been lots of posts about dogs' body language on this forum, but I haven't been able to find an answer to my specific question, so here goes...

I'm in the process of socializing my 1-year old GSD who is not experienced or confident around strangers, which can lead to him being acting fearful (but not aggressive) around strangers. We've made some progress, and I'm using techniques to desensitize him and help him make the positive association with strangers using treats and positive reinforcement for good behavior, such as sitting, watching me, acting calm, etc. Progress is SLOW GOING, but I am being patient and do already see some improvement (actually, it's only the third week I've been at this in earnest, so considering I've already seen improvement, I shouldn't be too impatient just yet!!).

I know from the websites many of you have posted that, in addition to other body cues, if the ears perked up and forward can mean curiosity, excitement, and general happiness. When the ears are up and turned to the side (but not back or flat against the head), then this can mean anxiousness. I've found this site on dog body language particularly useful: http://www.pawsacrossamerica.com/interpret.html

When we're doing our socialization and Gus spots a stranger, his ears will quickly rotate between being perked up and forward and being up and to the side... back and forth, back and forth... like they're on a swivel! Does this mean he's anxious? Building confidence but not quite there yet? Or something else?

The rest of his body language during our socialization sessions is as follows: head up or sometimes slightly lowered, tail down and relaxed (not tucked under his body but not up and wagging either). Mouth either closed or open in a relaxed pant; eyes open a normal amount, sometimes a little wider than normal. Only when he's caught by surprise does his butt go lower than his body and he'll back up and plant or want to get away.

I'm interested in understanding more about interpreting his body language because I want to know when it's appropriate for me to move on to the next step, like having a stranger throw him treats, etc.

Thank you in advance for your input!

The swivel ears you mention means the dog is unsure, his attention is likely going back and forth from the "scary" thing or the stranger, and back to you. I would redirect at that point as he is not locked on to the stranger/scary thing yet and you have a window there. It is the beginning of a stressful reaction, generally.

Since it has only been 3 weeks and you have already seen some improvement, I would have a party! Seriously! The look at me game is one thing to teach in the home where the dog is happy and safe, and a whole nuther ball game when you try to bring that into practice around stressful things. It is slow going at first.

His general body language of head up/ears forward/tail relaxed/relaxed pant etc sound like he is generally calm.
His reactions to surprises sound normal, he has not had the best time of "strangers" in his life. Things out of your control (day care, kennels etc) negatively affected his outlook on life which has surfaced in him showing nervousness/avoidance of strangers. I would give him a couple of months with no improvement before I would get worried, he sounds like he is doing well considering it has only been 3 weeks.

 Quote: jennifer marshal

The swivel ears you mention means the dog is unsure, his attention is likely going back and forth from the "scary" thing or the stranger, and back to you. I would redirect at that point as he is not locked on to the stranger/scary thing yet and you have a window there. It is the beginning of a stressful reaction, generally.

I had the same thought, that he's boarderline unsure, and it's my window to get his attention back on me. He's been doing this well, although not totally consistently, but I bribe him by using the prey motions in front of his face with treats, then move the treat from in front of his nose up to my face, and only reward when he looks me in the eyes.

 Quote: jennifer marshal

Since it has only been 3 weeks and you have already seen some improvement, I would have a party!

Good to know!! Thank you! I've been working with him in short sessions EVERY day, and I refuse to give up until he gets rid of those ghosts in his head, because I want him to be happy and healthy :-)

With the eye contact - reward as soon as his attention is off of the stranger or scary thing, and on the toy or treat, etc. The most important part is not that he looks at your eyes for now, it is that the cycle of anxiety is stopped/broken before it continues. If that just means he redirects onto his favorite toy at first, so be it.

If he feels like the only way he is going to get a reward when he is stressed is a 3-step process, he will be less inclined to take his attention off of the stranger. Remember that scary thing/stranger is not something he wants to take his eyes off of, he wants to keep looking because he wants to keep tabs on where it is and what its doing.

You have to make his attention not being on the scary thing/stranger much more rewarding. At first working on the look at me game through stress is going to be choppy, so reward his attention being off on the toy or treat immediately - either play a moment or give the treat/piece of treat, and then move the attention up to the face from there. Make the eye/face look more rewarding with a bigger/better treat and more play, etc.

Not looking at stranger = play/treat
Look at mom = lots of fun/super yummy treat and a pat!

Both are possitive and rewarding, but the ultimate goal of direct attention on you gets him the best reward. Most dogs take 4-5 weeks minimum being taken out 2-3 times a week. Be careful you are not overloading him, make sure to have confidence and bond building time at home and in non stressful areas more often than stressful/training walks.

Ah haaaaaa......! Very good to know!! Ok, I'll adjust my technique. And I'll bring his favorite ball with us too. And maybe I'll cut back on our sessions a bit, because I don't want to overload him!

Thanks again, you're such a wealth of great information!! Thanks to all this great info I'm now armed with, I feel like Gus and I have a good shot at recovery! :-)

Oh one more thing ! (I never stop .. :laugh

When considering rewards for this work - the reward needs to be very high value. Cut up chicken livers are wow for most dogs, or liver treats, freeze dried, etc. Something very tasty for food reward. Think mindblowing stuff here. The toy should be something great as well - and limit the use of these things. The treats and toy should primarily be for when you are working with him in stressful situations. I would actually make this reward (toy and/or treat) ONLY for this work to make it higher value. He will more readily redirect if he doesn't get that reward all the time.