Robert VanCamp Webboard User Reg: 11-28-2001
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Specifically, put (a little at a time) more pressure on the dog during the prey guarding exercise by using direct eye contact, more intimidating body postures, and waiting longer during agitation to retreat(in hopes of getting a more powerful counter from the dog). A helper that doesn't mind looking like an idiot can do some pretty weird, aggressive looking, stuff to basically push the dog into defense drive. It depends on the dog and the experience of the helper working him as to how you are going to do this. Hard to nail it here on a web thread O.
There is a bungload of info out there on agitation.
Also I would start civil work just like Vince explained it above. Then, if necessary, move on to different other areas or circumstances.
Hey, if any of this stuff starts to work you won't need to worry about getting locked in prey. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />
if the problem is high threshold and I mistake it for late bloomer, will continued prey work at this stage make it harder to bring him into defense later, i.e. become "locked in prey"?
Yes. After the bite is full and calm with a nice carry, sleeve prey work should slow down until he is mature enough to introduce defense. If being locked in prey bothers you. I have warned about this to people who did not care because they have seen national level dogs locked in prey all the time. I feel differently.
Thanks. We took him out yesterday, and actually got him to bark, so that's a step at least. Since my focus is protection work, I don't want him locked in prey. We had a dog like that just stand there in front of an obvious aggressor during civil work, very disappointing.
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