I was having a similar problem w/ Chula and did pretty much what Carol suggested above (it was also w/ a high value ball). If she didn't bring it directly to me I would reel her in w/ the long line (no treat)and tell her to drop it.
I also found that w/ a high value item she will drop it readily (without bribery) if I have my foot on the long line to prevent her from dodging me when she's close. If she drops it w/ no additional coercion on my part she gets a reward.
She is really improving with this method on both the 'drop it' issue and returning the ball directly to me.
I love the long line!

 Quote: carol boche

He "teases" you with the new ball and not the kong...right?

I would do the long line thing.

Our lab tried that with tennis balls and it took Doug about 15 minutes with the long line, low level stim and raw hamburger to end that. (it took him an hour to not be pissed enough at Marley to go out and do that though)

Nothing worse than a taunting dog to make you realize there is an issue that needs to be worked on....

He does a bit of a tease with the kong ball--the chomping, head-waving bit--but at least he drops it. I didn't realize that there can be different-level balls like there are treats.

I suppose I should go get a long line now.

Hi all,

I appreciate this topic. I don't have a large dog like you folks; I have a cockapoo with an attitude that I need help with.
We've had him since Jan and he is now 15 mths old. He's the "grab-and-run" type and has been on permanent leash since about a week after he arrived.

I purchased the pack order dvd and tried it but it didn't help at all. It just made him clingy to me. And if he should accidently get off leash or I get careless and he gets away, he finds something to chew and off he goes. He will not come when called or drop when ordered, etc. He's his own dog at that point.

He's very smart. He knows the commands and performs them consistently while on leash. He knows, however, that when he's free, he doesn't have to listen to anyone. I worked with him extensively for over 2 mths and he still only listens while on the prong and leash. Forget pack leader stuff. All of it goes out of the window as soon as he (on rare occasions) escapes, whatever.

I think the prob is, he's too smart. Period. There's no long-term conditioning that seems to matter with this dog. I think the only thing that will work is force with an e-collar, I'm afraid.

Food doesn't work, either, BTW. He trains fine for a couple of minutes then he figures out where you're holding the food and goes after the bag. He figures he can skip the performance and just get the food and be done with it. He stops listening, etc. Yes, of course the prong helps, but again, why bother if as soon as he's off the leash he's wild again?

Funny thing is, he doesn't show any signs of a dominance issue, other than blowing me/my 6'3" base-voiced husband off like a cheap cigar when he has what he wants in his mouth. He has a lot of prey drive and I try to play/work with him frequently to burn off the energy. But, forget the respect thing. He seems to know he doesn't have to respect anyone when he's free--only when tethered to his master. And he constantly scratches at his collar in protest.

I'm beginning to wonder if breed really does matter, LOL. Will he grow out of this eventually? At this point, I'm doubting it. I suspect this is the reason his prev owners gave him up.

Kim

Hi Kim,
Welcome! Is your dog crate trained?
Start a new topic and give a few details about your daily life with this dog and you will get some useful feedback, I'm sure.

Kim, when you say he is permanently on leash do you mean tethered to you?

I also have a small breed (very active, very energetic)and have been tethering for a few months, but I think it is the best thing I have ever done with a dog. She is not 'clingy' but does follow me when not tethered and she happily comes when I call her. I always make coming to me a VERY positive experience.

Does he have an irresistable urge to chew everything in sight?

I thought food was enough of an incentive. He will come for table scraps, but I don't always have them on hand, LOL. I think they fed him from the table, unfortunately. He may have had his own plate for all I know.

Kim

Kim, as Lynne said, start a new thread so we don't hijack this one. It makes it easier when people are using the search function looking for particulars.

Also, I don't have as much experience as many on this board, so this is only my opinion on what I have done with mine and I am sure that you will get some very valuable advice here as I have,but, no mine does not chew on every thing in site.

I think she would, but I give her lots of different chew toys and pigs ears (her favorite).

Also, I have been crating/tethering. Meaning, she is in her crate when I can't watch her 100%. This is why tethering is so good for them. She is either tethered or crated. This helps set her up for success because she cannot chew on anything undesired if she is tethered to me or if she is in her crate.

Some of the experienced handlers here can explain it better, but in just a couple of months, this little black devil of a dog is turning into a wonderful pet and I think it is all due to the tethering.

Start a new thread and I am sure you will get loads of help.

Nora

Kim, please start a new thread.

Just go here
http://www.leerburg.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/postlist/Board/15
and click on "new topic" in blue at the top, beside "forum options," to start your own thread. Just copy and paste your post(s) into your new message box.

There's loads of help here.

No, breed and intelligence do NOT preclude ob training being successful.

MANY folks here have small and large, companion and working, highly intelligent and not-so ....

Been up since 4:00 this morning so my brain isn't working today but in one of the videos Ed uses two balls to play fetch. He throws one ball then teases the dog with the other until it comes to him and drops the first then he throws the second. Have you tried this?