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The longer the lag time between the two stimuli, the longer the latency of response.

Or in NPO terms...the time it takes between command and correction is the time it takes to sit. So when you are far away you have a longer time between the two.

I also agree with motivation instead. Also, unless the puppy will not screw up with you holding the leash don't move away. This is where people tell me the puppy won't break the command holding the leash. I then tell them they are BORING. Put your puppy in a sit, then you sit on the floor. What does puppy do? Have puppy standing. you sit on floor and give command. What does puppy do? You roll a ball by and tell puppy to sit at the same time. What does puppy do? I know, I know, that is tricking the puppy. Well, if it gets that distracted with a ball when holding the leash, there is no reason to give the command from farther than 6 feet away. If the dog won't do it from six feet it wont do it from 20.
<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Boy! glad I read this post. I'm doing it all wrong. You mean you have to teach sit/stay and come with the lease attached. :rolleyes: <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

I'll start all over and begin in the morning giving commands with the lease on. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

Just kidding, at five months old this pup should be killing himself to get to you when called, sit in front when he gets to you and stay with minor distractions.
But then I'm not using a leash and giving corrections/ only praise for doing what's asked.

Naw, I'll keep too not using the LEASH with CORRECTIONS for a while.
But I'm still LEARNING/ pup is teaching me something new every training session. Heck I know how to run to the wife to get a reward!!!!!!!!!!! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Todd, At 6 months I don't think she has been proofed. Sorry she's no angel, more like the serpent from Hades. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I do know when she's tracking you can not distract her. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

WORST OF ALL SHE"S UGLY AS %&&*&$$
I guess I know for sure she has no American Showline blood. Maybe some Mal?? Belgium and Dutch lines a Mal somewhere in the woodpile.

The Akita kills all the rabits and everything else,the pup too if she had a chance. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

This is all about area of influence. Regardless of the motivator, the dog does not relate any consequence to his action good or bad. This is because nothing good or bad has happened when you are 10 feet away.

Work within your area of influence (close)and make the action for command a learned one. By training for error you will eventually get error.

Train for success.

 Quote:

Originally posted by Todd E. Gaster:
You know me...SQUIRT EM!

lol... funny <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />
Maybe I should rethink this training method. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Yep! I went outside and squirted the RABIT.
Dennis postd,

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Train for success.

I can agree with that, anyone who doesn't I'll Squirt them. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

I find that in the pup stage you get a lot farther with positive reinforcement for distance commands, as long as you eventually are moving out to distances and working with MINOR distractions.

The reason is that you don't have to reinforce with a correction, which you can't make at a distance without a long leash. The dog is working for itself and to get that reward. More motivation to sit at distance.

You start with immediate positive reinforcement and then can stretch it out to intermittent reinforcement, while you are increasing distances and giving commands from different locations.

I start right in front of pup. Then get pup to sit and wait for treat. Then sit while I move for treat. Then sit immediately for treat. And so on. . .You can get your dog to sit from anywhere in the house because he knows it will eventually lead to reward. If you are using corrections then he'll wait till you are there to give them, just like Doyle is seeing.

Later as you demand faster work and proof against any distraction. . .then you can put the thumbscrews to the little snothead.

Or squirt them. . . :rolleyes:

Thanks to all of you for your response.

You know, as I think about it I started just as VanCamp suggested - give treat in the kitchen right in front of me. Somewhere along the line I inadvertantly started using less treats and more corrections - got too busy.

You are correct - he is avoiding a correction rather than looking forward to a treat.

Back to the bait bag!!!

Doyle