I have a one year old GSD that has been through bite developement. He will bite a sleeve but he isn't working in defense. Please give me some advice on introducing him to defense. Thanks.
That is where I am with my rotti, he has a very deep strong grip but my helper tells me he is biting only from prey drive. He whacks him pretty hard with the whip while he is on the sleeve to try to get him to go into defense, all my dog does is pull harder on the sleeve. My helper says his thresholds and nerves are so good it is hard to shake him up enough to come out of prey. He said we should take a few months off from the sleeve and just do sack work. Hopefully he will mature a little more and he won't get locked in prey drive. He is only about 1 year old so he is still a pup by rotti standards. My helper said trying to get him to go into defense is like asking a 10 year old kid to stick up for you. This makes sense, what should I do so he doesn't get locked in prey drive?
Getting the First Steps in Defense video is a good start. Joe your dog could start to show signs of defense any time now. The other thing that you coud start now is doing some civil work. No Equipment, no bite (obviously), just work on stiring the dog up. You shouldn't have to even hit the dog to get it to work. Then come back with a sleeve and give him a bite.
If you can't be a Good Example,then You'll just have to Serve as a Horrible Warning. Catherine Aird.
Richard, that is how we started my dog. I would bring him out and the helper would be behind the blind and peek his head around and my dog lit up like a christmas tree. He was about 9 months old at the time. Within the last few months through sack work he has turned into a real driven dog. So that is when they put him on the sleeve. Again, he is confident but my helpers/trainers are scared he will get locked in prey forever.
I hope Lou Castle reads this as he has seen my dog work.
What you are describing with the blind is prey work. The type of work I am talking about is a more direct confrontation with the agitator not playing peek-a-boo in the blind. The agitator is squared up on the dog and threatening, they just don't tuch the dog. Be careful with doing this too much as the dog may decide to go for hands.
If you can't be a Good Example,then You'll just have to Serve as a Horrible Warning. Catherine Aird.
Pull back at the first signs of stress (change in pitch of the bark, increased looking back at the handler, any significant change in the dogs behavior). Stop and have the agitator run away as soon as there is any sign of stress. The next time you do it try and stop just short of the dog demonstrating stress. Every once in a while (month or so) try and push a little farther. I wouldn't do it more than once a session to start with, and preferably early in the session.
If you can't be a Good Example,then You'll just have to Serve as a Horrible Warning. Catherine Aird.
Thanks Richard, I appreciate the insight. How do you feel about continuing with the sack work? What if my helpers don't want to do civil work, should I just keep using the sack?
I agree with the civil work. NO sleeve work should be performed. Try having the aggitator stand in one spot, with only left&right movement to build prey to get the dog focused. Then have the aggitator come in on the and retreat(stright line) when the dog goes out to the end of the lead. He must read the dog well enough not to retreat to far out this will teach the dog to turn it's back on the predator when a min. distance is given or when the aggitator turns his back. Keep the pressure and the attention on the aggiitator, not the sleeve or any other equipment. Recognizing the dogs stress level is VERY important in doing this as stated earlier. You will have to judge on your own when you feel the dog has reached a point where he can be given a bite.
Ok, this thread is OLDER THAN DIRT and it is under the wrong heading, but I can't move/close it because it isn't in my section! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />
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