oh ok, so is the prong collar the best way to go, for a pulling dog, i just shorten his lead everytime he tries to pull untill the point he is right at my side and goes where i go. if he wants to walk and sniff i gove him more lead he tries to pull again i shorten it back up
Reg: 07-13-2005
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Quote: michael curry
oh ok, so is the prong collar the best way to go, for a pulling dog, i just shorten his lead everytime he tries to pull untill the point he is right at my side and goes where i go. if he wants to walk and sniff i gove him more lead he tries to pull again i shorten it back up
I teach him at home to walk beside me, loose-leash, with rewards (please see Lynne's post).
I decide when the sniff-and-explore freedom is granted during the walk (not the dog).
I stand still at that time so there is not confusion about who is leading.
When I give the casual heel command (for me, it's "Let's go!"), release time is over and it's walking time.
And I march right along, too, getting the dog into "the zone" as much as possible and not having him gaze all around looking for something besides me to focus on. The time for exploring is during the release sessions.
So the walk is a mix of good brisk focused loose-leash walking and releases for the dogs to sniff around. All this is at the handler's say-so... the dog doesn't determine pace, direction, or focus.
Rewards to teach heel work very nicely. Marker training works great for teaching any new behavior, in fact.
ok, im new to the whole walking thing, i have a huge back yard so i normally dont take my dogs for walks, and when i do if they pull i just pull back and say no or heal, or just shorten the lead..
should i use the prong collar when i walk him if he is pulling, im used to using a flat back leather collar.
Think of long walks in terms of time, not actually going somewhere. Do an about turn every time he pulls and go the opposite way. An unrepentant puller may wander back and forth over 15 feet the whole time, but he'll be learning something. It may be boring for you, but you'll stop teaching him to pull against the prong, and you'll save your shoulder muscles.
Don't use a prong if you're afraid to give a proper correction with it. Most dogs can acclimate to steady pressure on the prong. A correction should be a sharp, short pull that changes the dog's behavior. (At the beginning of training, the change may not last long, but there must be a change.) If you can't give a correction that changes behavior, stick with all positive methods, as a different corrective tool will not change your own personality.
You may also consider giving him a weighted backpack, or a harness and a drag to get more exercise in a shorter walk, if your problem is that the shorter training work does not burn enough energy.
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