steve strom Webboard User Reg: 03-17-2006
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Quote: John Tepe
Randy, Steve, Sarah or William,
If the prong collar is too tight can it cause damage. In order to keep the collar from falling down I took out a prong. It is now tight all the time.
Thanks,
John
You mis-read what I posted. I didnt say anything about fit. I said your not USING it correctly. I don't care where you put it on his neck, if he's dragging you it's because he's taken all the slack out of the leash and you're not correcting him.
Today on walk I noticed a dog a block away. I watched carefully to see how my dog would react when he first saw the dog. Immediately his tail began wagging and he was hyper. When the dog was about 50 feet away he went up on hind legs and barked like crazy. Throughout I tried to calm him down. I turned and began walking away from the other dog. He contined to pull and look back until the dog was out of site.
Hi John,
I'd still suggest using a dominant dog collar, as per my posts earlier in this thread. Just calmly lifting his front feet off the ground when he gets hyper like this, setting him down again and rewarding/praising him as soon as he calms down. JMHO, but this has worked for me in similar situations, better than a prong.
Connie Sutherland Moderator Reg: 07-13-2005
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Loc: North-Central coast of California
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Quote: sarah ward
Quote: john tepe
In answer to questions:
Today on walk I noticed a dog a block away. I watched carefully to see how my dog would react when he first saw the dog. Immediately his tail began wagging and he was hyper. When the dog was about 50 feet away he went up on hind legs and barked like crazy. Throughout I tried to calm him down. I turned and began walking away from the other dog. He contined to pull and look back until the dog was out of site.
Hi John,
I'd still suggest using a dominant dog collar, as per my posts earlier in this thread. Just calmly lifting his front feet off the ground when he gets hyper like this, setting him down again and rewarding/praising him as soon as he calms down. JMHO, but this has worked for me in similar situations, better than a prong.
I'm curious about why you don't focus the dog on you long before you did.
How do you "try to calm him down"?
As someone else posted, the dog can learn different behavior. This is done outside the "circle of reactivity." Focus on you, and basic ob with fabulous rewards, is worked on with no distractions, maybe in the house and then the driveway. Then the venue is varied. Then various low-level distractions are introduced.
This work doesn't start with strange dogs inside his reactive range, though.
And when you are ready to take the show on the road, I agree with Francis: 'The idea is to correct the dog when he even thinks about showing any sign of aggression/hunting drive. After a couple "sessions", your dog will back-off as soon as he hears "NO!". Don't forget to praise whenever his attention is on you. .... And if you know there's a dog (or anything that triggers him) in the vicinity, try to redirect attention to you BEFORE the encounter. And gives lots of praise/reward if the dog behaves correctly. Not having to correct your dog is even better!"
Again: Redirect before the dog has zoomed in on the distraction.
John,
Does the dog know the "Watch me" command (look at my face and pay attention) and "On by" (keep going and ignore dogs or other distractions)? These are useful - as suggested above, you want to teach them first without distractions, but then these commands give you a positive way to direct the dog to an alternative behavior instead of lunging and barking. I do agree that you should actively redirect the dog much earlier, as soon as it starts to look at another dog.
DD collar could be useful to regain control and refocus him on you if he still starts lunging and dancing around.
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Re: Bark collar or remote collar
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