Help! I'm frustrated (which I know doesn't help!). I've been working in Kasey, whose 2 1/2 yr (golden retriever), for a long time now on walking. We are at the place where he doesn't pull anymore, there is a little tension on the leash in high distraction places some of the time. But I can't get him to walk further back - his belly is at my leg and I really want his head to be there.

I got to this place mostly by doing 180's when he would pull. I tried doing marker training, but he focuses sooo much on the food, that he isn't learning to focus on me - the food seems like it becomes a distraction. Now no matter how much I do the 180 turning, he still edges back up eventually. It's like he just forgets what I want and gets focused on other things! I know he is still young, but I feel like I'm beating my head against the wall trying to get him to stay back.

Does anyone have any ideas? I am working towards therapy dog certification and he has to stay back and pay a little more attention than he is.

 Quote: Lori Hall

I tried doing marker training, but he focuses sooo much on the food, that he isn't learning to focus on me - the food seems like it becomes a distraction.

Did you try marker work after a meal and a good workout?

Also, I have seen mention made of trying a lower-value food reward with a dog who is extremely food-driven.

What is wrong with food? I would not only reward food, but praise too. I would carry the food in pocket (completely invisible to the dog, but he might know it is there. One thing I prefer if the dog doesn't know which reward it will get. Sometimes I would give the food, toy, or praise.

Another thing you can try is a left hand circle, the dog has to learn to step back or be walked into.

You'll probably find this a bit nagging like I'm playing an old song but in my experience it all boils down to pack structure. My best example is one of my dogs. She would walk in the heel position with me wherever we go. She would sit automatically when I stop. When I run she runs. I could stop so sudden but she would put on her brakes to sit beside me. We pass a fence where a cattle dog wants to kill her from the other side but she ignores it completely. A Jack Russel off its leash came rushing to us once wanting to play but she ignores it just the same. When I am beside this dog everything around her is of no importance. I have conditioned this dog from a very young age to ignore everything around her and just follow my lead. And I have never felt tension on that leash not since she was 4 months. We have always walked in a very loose lead in the heel position. She has a very high play drive mind you. When I let her play with my friends' dogs she's like a ball energy and she could easily wear another dog down. On the otherhand, when she walks with my wife she pulls and jumps and go crazy like she's another dog. People are very confused about this when they see it...
My simple answer to them is: pack structure. My wife is not a pack leader and I am a pack leader. Simple as that. If a dog refuses a learned command you are not it's pack leader. Sorry to sound so absolute but it really is. To them, pack leaders are absolute authorities and there are no ifs and buts. I almost got my other dog injured once when he tried to squeeze himself in an impossibly tight spot between two parked cars when I told him to come. To him he'd rather twist his leg than miss his pack. I'm going to collect my thoughts and write some methods I use to train my dogs in the walk. But I am no professional nor an expert. Most of the time I use my instincts. A lot of good materials are in this site already. I hope this gives you some inspiration and not be frustrated. The key is be calm. Take deep breathes and let your dog hear it, it calms them down as well.
"Own" your pack.

When teaching a crisp "professional" heel, you have to remember that all things are taught through baby steps.

Literally.

Using marker training, and perhaps a lower value treat (or just verbal praise, if that works well for this dog) you can slowly teach the dog proper heeling position. One step at a time.

Have the dog sitting by your side. Take one step forward, and when the dog steps forward with you, immediately mark and reward.

Then two steps.

Then three.

Work very slowly, and reward before the dog has the opportunity to forge.