Robert VanCamp Webboard User Reg: 11-28-2001
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No, not a real giant BREED, but a 120 pound Rotty.
You have to be super careful because there isn't any check on how tight it can get, and you have to put it right under the thing that feels like the adam's apple on the dog. (I don't know what you call that -F-er.)
There has to be a zip action not just pull pull pull. . . that lets the dog flex and fight it.
You can use two leashes to do it real well. OR to help keep it in place you can put a regular collar on and the zip on. Then you put another ring that connects the live zip ring with the leash ring on the regular collar. The zip sits above the collar higher up the neck in possition. The connecting ring holds it in place.
As soon as the dog gets in front of her even one step turn and run the other way 3-4 steps. Then stop and brace yourself. Do this a couple of times and I think she will be alright. Even giving a clue 'far enough' so that later that would be all she would have to say and the dog should stop.
Todd, I've been using the same ideas in helping my neighbour train her Siberian. It's basically what I used on my own dog. I use the cue word "easy". Short and sweet.
BTW, how about those new fangled harnesses? The kind that goes around the dogs shoulders and applies pressure to his armpits when he pulls. I've seen one on a big dobe and a lab. Would that help her?
Kojak, I checked out that web site. That was not the prong I saw. I can visualize it clearly in my mind, but can't remember where she bought it. It might have even come from Germany.
Would withholding some (about half) of his food for the day and using it to treat be a better motivator? A hungry dog is a dog willing to learn and comply, usually.
I've never heard good things about those newfangled no pull harnesses. From what I understand, they're pretty ineffective. But the head collar, now, those things do tend to work to reduce pulling. I know that a lot of folks here seem to have a bias against them, and I can understand some very good reasons for that, but I do think that they can be a valuable tool when applied to the right dogs in the right situations. It is worth a try.
I also like the idea of making him earn each bite of his meals. Hand feeding can be a great way to get a more cooperative attitude from the more stubborn of dogs. Really hits the point home as to who controls the resources.
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