I was wondering if any one who has used his program from the dvd can help me out. What is a good mark for the isolation to be over with? It seems that in the dvd it is presented as being when the dog is "calm and submissive" in the crate. If your dog is already good in he crate, can you move on to the next phase right away?
I'm just curious because obedience training is the highlight of my day!
No. I'm firming up my relationship with my adolescent GSD who's been challenging me lately. She showed her teeth to me last week when she was laying in the doorway and I told her to move, among other pushy behaviors. Basically, she is grounded!
I'm wondering if I really need to do the whole isolation thing with her, though. She is mostly a good dog, and she is good in the crate. Is it ok to just start out with step two of allowing earned privileges?
You are probably right. My issue is that she is still very young, a little less than a year. In regards to his program I'm not sure If I should be treating her like a puppy or an adult dog. I wish Ed had a dvd about dealing with adolescents! I think its the most confusing time in a dog owners life.
What I'm afraid of is hat if she doesn't get some daily running exercise she gets pent up and nervous very quickly. I can walk and walk and walk, its just not enough for her energy level. I think its mostly because of her age.
Right now I exercise her by playing fetch on a 50 foot line. I make her earn it with a fast paced obedience session, which also helps to wear her out. Cutting this out, even for a few days worries me a little.
Thats why I was wondering if it might be OK to let her earn a little freedom everyday.
Today I went for a walk with just my Great Dane. Along with the prong collar, we have been using distraction (food and a pine cone). Food is for fun and getting him to watch me, the pine cone is the heavy artillery when other dogs are close by us. It has been working!!! This week we are starting marker training. It is much more enjoyable to walk when I have confidence that my dog is under control.
I would suggest that you also use a dominant dog collar with your prong, just in case it should fail. I have had one do so a couple of times & was glad that I had it on to prevent what could have been a big problem.
Gaby, so glad that you are finding the prong collar is working well for you. I just wanted to second Ann's post about using a back up dominant collar, with the prong.
I too have had to do a correction and the prong came unhitched and it was just so nice to know my dog was going nowhere because he was still attached to the dominant collar.
Best wishes and have fun with the marker training!
When purchasing any product from Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. it is understood
that any and all products sold by Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. are sold in Dunn
County Wisconsin, USA. Any and all legal action taken against Leerburg Enterprises,
Inc. concerning the purchase or use of these products must take place in Dunn
County, Wisconsin. If customers do not agree with this policy they should not
purchase Leerburg Ent. Inc. products.
Dog Training is never without risk of injury. Do not use any of the products
sold by Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. without consulting a local professional.
The training methods shown in the Leerburg Ent. Inc. DVD’s are meant
to be used with a local instructor or trainer. Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. cannot
be held responsible for accidents or injuries to humans and/or animals.
Copyright 2010 Leerburg® Enterprises, Inc. All rights reserved. All photos and content on leerburg.com are part of a registered copyright owned by Leerburg Enterprise, Inc.
By accessing any information within Leerburg.com, you agree to abide by the
Leerburg.com Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.
Re: Starting the pack structure
Top
Previous Topic
Index
Next Topic
