I received my first female Malinois 2 weeks ago at her 7 weeks old, after 14 hours transport, the pup showed depressed on arrival, sensitive to noise etc. The very next day, I began to socialize her to new surroundings as much as possible, when I walked her on the street, she wouldn’t walk, just sit still. I pull her, she lie down and dig her head down into the grass. I pull her harder closed to the HEEL position; she’ll bite my pant sleeves. I tried to trade with a ball or a towel, she wouldn’t make the deal, instead, she switched to my arms.
I thought that she was trying to calm herself to release stress, so I didn’t stop her doing this. On the other hand, I am pleased with her “prey drive” . But I was a bit concerned that she is typical “weak nerve” Malinois bitch. Therefore, I encouraged her to do whatever she liked to do in order to build up her confidence.
After 2 weeks’ works, she improved dramatically. She would come on command promptly, retrieve & come back to me without hesitation etc. She is friendly to human but reserved to other dogs.
Problem arise yesterday, I bought a new ball on string and played with her, after her several missing of the ball, she showed aggression, she’d bark and growl mad and bit my legs, this time I knew she mean it (her hair and heckle up). So I stop her and say “NO” to her, she’d go for my hands, released and go for another part of my body. Eventually, I held her up into my arms and calm her down.
Folks, Did I do anything wrong? Is this a Dominant Dog? Should I or shouldn’t I stop her doing this to me, her master? If yes, would I kill her prey drive? If not, would she finally kill me? What should I do? Any input will be appreciated. Many thanks.
I think you need to find a local trainer who knows what she/he is doing to help you a little. You're expectations are WAY out of wack for such a young dog. The puppy will tell you when she's ready to do things.. .
"The very next day, I began to socialize her to new surroundings as much as possible," WHY would you do this? She needs time to settle in. . .
". . .when I walked her on the street, she wouldn’t walk, just sit still. I pull her, she lie down and dig her head down into the grass. I pull her harder closed to the HEEL position; she’ll bite my pant sleeves." No kidding. . .she's telling you she doesn't want to do something. . .she's 7 weeks old and you try to force her? She should have bit you harder!
". . .she’d bark and growl mad and bit my legs," Smart DOG. . .she should be praised!
"Did I do anything wrong?" Uh, yeah. . .me thinks so.
Sorry to be sooo sarcastic. . .but you need to get to a qualified trainer. . .this sounds like a nice puppy that you WILL ruin if you continue down this path.
Missing the ball builds frustration and frustration in turn builds drive. If however, the dog is not getting success by winning the ball often enough it will naturally go for the next best thing like pants & hands etc. I would try and make it a little easier for the dog to win the prey item, which in turn will help build confidence. As for the heeling thing, I'm not sure why you are yanking on a 7wk. old dog. I would use treats and keep it more fun at this age. It sounds to me like you have a very nice dog here with nice drives. Nothing you described IMO would be considered dominance. Ed has a nice tape on Puppy Bite Work, I forgot the exact name of the tape, but it is one that might do you some good to purchase and review if your considering this kind of training.
I agree with the others you are trying to move too fast, what I like to see in the game is a williness to come and follow to fetch and tug, this builds into a heel or what ever. 1st the puppy must assoicate the command to an action.
Sorta like using hand gestures with a non english speaking forigner, after he assoicates what you mean to a object or thing, you have some sorta of communication.
Right now you should just concentrate on, the basic like assoicating the word sit with the action. Like associating the word come with the action, and making it fun to come, down and sit.
This is done by really praising/rubbing the puppy up with a verbal "good puppy" and or treats.
The tug of war sessions should be short sessions were he/she grabs and pulls and wins, and you praise. As the puppy gets more intense you let it take just seconds longer to give up the tug/rewards. As the puppy gets older you can play longer, harder and rougher.
Really the only time you should use the leash to discipline is if the puppy/dog already knows the command, and you are just trying to get it to focus on U and training. So no dragging or tugging it across the grass. Because it does not know why U are being so mean.
The puppy bite work tape and Ed's new version of the "Your Puppy, Eight Weeks to Eight Months". <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
>>Don't forget to stop playing tug when your pup starts teething...
I've never stopped playing bitework...but I did lighten the 'intensity' of the bitework until teething was complete....So far, I have found that with my pups, teething didn't inhibit bitework and they bit everything they could get their little teeth into (blood and all). They had no issues initiating.
I'm not saying all pups are like this...but I'd let the individual pup dictate what or how much is done.
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