I agree that to bring up the level of intensity the dog should be worked in defense. With that said, my understanding is that dogs tend to have fuller grips when biting in prey, as opposed to defense where you would tend to see more mouthy, hectic, and shallow grips. That's why the best scenario is a dog that is well balanced in his drives, where he barks in defense and bites in prey. JMO
Frank Amato Webboard User Reg: 12-04-2001
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If we have gotten off topic I'm sorry and I'll start this again elsewhere.
Ron,I agree with your first post. Mine isn't given the chance to go into defense. The helper comes out very slowly, no threatening gestures, no sleeve movement. The dog is expected to continue barking and go into a sit.After the dog settles, he is given a bite. Meanwhile to get the dog to a sit he is given a couple of corrections with a pinch collar.
The reason, as explained to me, for this technique is to teach the dog to concentrate his energy into his bark and bite. The problem is, from my point of view is that he has started to learn to control himself at the expense of his bite.
I dont want to ruggle feathers here but your probably ahead of yourself. Forget the blind, dog is on a long line with some one other than you holding the line.Helper is in front of you and dog about 15-20 ft. Helper agitates and you turn the dog on. You send the dog for a B&H. when he is about three feet from the helper he is "stoped" by the long line. Forget the sit, If you want a sit do it later, one thing at a time,Bark,bark,bite! gradually extending the bark before he gets the bite. While he is barking you praise and pat him on the sides. If he tries cheep shots at the helper, he is held back with the long line. No correction, held back.
I know you want control, but that is a differant lesson later. You can not teach intensity and control at the same time. Or at least not untill later.
Ron
Frank Amato Webboard User Reg: 12-04-2001
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This is all done outside of the blind on the flat.
Ron, you won't hurt my feelings, ruffle those feathers.
When you let the dog go after the helper, is he on a flat collar or a pinch?
No, I ment with your training director.
To answer, it depends on the dog. If he is fairly clean ure the flat. If he is dirty use the pinch, but dont correct him, he will correct himself if he lunges. But if the self correction causes a break in focas on the helper, go to the flat. Three or so sessions and you can move to the front of the blind. Then two or three of those and you can go in the blind.
Once you have a good B&H in the blind you can clean him up but not with the stick. It will load him more. You can use e-collor with LOW stem, and no bite untill you get-say-three good barks with out touching the sleeve, Next time 5 barks clean, and so on. He will learn the bite comes only from being clean and with a continual bark. On some hard dogd you will have to use heavier corrections to clean it up. But not untill he is confident in the blind and intense.
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