We have just gotten started reading the book and watching the dvd seminar. Already I am seeing huge response in Jethro - more relaxed, less barking, more connection to me...

Anyone else used Leslie McDevitt's approach?

I thought the concept of the book looked interesting also so ordered it -it was also recommended to me on another thread on reactivity...but my DVD budget belongs to Ed at the moment!
Do you find it complimentary to our Leerburg concepts?

I really like the book! lots of great ideas for counter-conditioning. I've used some ideas in the book for my dog reactive dog. Also really good ideas for getting your dog to focus and learn self-control and relax in stimulating situations.

It is marker based training, easy to understand training steps and ideas. I was reading it going, "duh! that makes perfect sense" It doesn't go into the correction phase of training, but it is a really, really great starting point for basic to moderate self control and reactivity issues.

Oh very good....I'm looking forward to getting it then. Also, just to clarify a point on the redirection etc work in leash reactivity -is it always wrong or confusing to the dog to give a correction? I get the positive reinforcement camp, and we live there 90% of the time..I can turn her around, ask for a "sit" and "down" now if the other dog isn't too close. I'm just wondering if a minor leash pop and "NO" has no place if I she starts to stiffen and thinks about yipping...??

"I can turn her around, ask for a "sit" and "down" now if the other dog isn't too close. .... I'm just wondering if a minor leash pop and "NO" has no place if I she starts to stiffen and thinks about yipping...?? "

For me, I have this question: Why are you that close so soon?

If the dog is reacting, then (in my own methods) you have moved too close to the trigger too soon. Desensitizing (for me) is working outside the trigger zone as the trigger zone shrinks (in a nutshell).

I might correct for a 100% well-learned-obedience refusal, such as moving out of the sit. But that's for the ob, not the reactivity. And again, I just don't want to keep reinforcing that reactive habit, which I would do if I continued to put the dog inside her reactive zone instead of working outside its edge as it naturally shrinks (as the dog learns the boringness and non-threat of the background dogs and as I control encounters while we work on reactivity).

Thank you very much Connie...after I posted this I sat back and thought about it awhile and came to the same conclusion -I am pushing it. It's hard (OK, takes patience) to not walk along our ocean front path in this beautiful weather but it's just not worth it to possibly undo the progress we're making -and we are making progress....
One last question (I apologize -I know this reactivity stuff gets a bit redundant/tedious for the PMs and more experienced!) but I haven't caught this addressed here -she is far, FAR less reactive when I walk her by myself -or when my husband goes solo. When we walk her together in the afternoon is almost starts out on her toes and seems more hyper aware..this too, is getting better but it's weird..

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Also, just to clarify a point on the redirection etc work in leash reactivity -is it always wrong or confusing to the dog to give a correction? I get the positive reinforcement camp, and we live there 90% of the time..I can turn her around, ask for a "sit" and "down" now if the other dog isn't too close. I'm just wondering if a minor leash pop and "NO" has no place if I she starts to stiffen and thinks about yipping...??

Remember that reacting dogs aren't thinking. Their reaction has become a default behavior. With fear based reaction, correction can put them more on edge if they haven't learned that they can be calm around other dogs -ie, in the dogs mind "I see another dog, Im stessed, I start to tense up, I get corrected = other dogs mean I'm going to get corrected, oh no there's a dog what do I do"

What I'd do is teach a new default behavior that is incompatible with reacting. Practice is everywhere and heavily reward it. Have this SOLID in a dozen different dog free places before trying for it under the distraction of dogs (in the far distance!). For example, my dog Kipp goes down with his head between his paws. It's the first thing he offers me when he's unsure or is begging. And it feeds a relaxed state of mind.

Once your dog is solid, solid, solid with a new default behavior, then you can incrementally work closer to other dogs. Remember, baby steps and awesome rewards. Instead of an "oh mo, what's going to happen" it becomes "cool I can offer something I understand and get an awesome reward for it"

Edited by Mara Jessup (01/26/2011 11:12 AM)
Edit reason: add some more info

Excellent point and suggestion -she's a wonderful dog and the training and ground work have been fun and satisfying -but patience is not always my long suit to be honest -they really do force us to be better people if we listen..