Well, everyone always say dominance but if it didn't feel good they wouldn't do it, so I think there is a sexual component. As far as "gay" goes, that's a human construct, males of all species are ready and willing to breed anything that will stand. Adolescent males ride, whether they are colts, calves, bucks, tom cats or pups. Or turkeys. 100% of intact young males who feel good attempt some riding of whomever will permit it.
Neutering will help some, not 100%. They still hope!
My dog can be a humper . They need to learn this is not going to be tolerated, period, it's bad manners. Just like you would not allow him to hump your leg, not for a second.
If you set it up, with a favorite humping target, make it clear no play will be allowed if play = humping, reward with food a good sit, and give access to play until such time as humping happens, and correct it firmly, you can stop it. If you allow humping sometimes and laugh and only occasionally correct it the behavior will continue.
My dog knows the command "no humping" if not obeyed is followed by a boot to the rear. Your dog just needs to learn more appropriate play behavior, then he'll be fine.

As usual, Betty, you said it much better and more quickly than me.

I agree, 100%.

Well, I can think of a long leed with a level 3 correction that will get it to sink in, I hope, I will try this. For the neutering, just like the vaccines, I have learnt that some dogs actually get cancer faster with neutering, plus it affects there drives, good and bad I guess. : ) But will have to weigh the is option if it continues. Thanks for all the info.

Before you start cranking on him, try to think more about timing then how hard you're gonna do it. If you wait till he's lathering up the boxers used to be theres, you're too late.

It needs to be interrupted before it gets started, and its started when he first starts thinking about it. I think to this point, all you've done is frustrate him and made him more determined to do what he wants, or maybe taught him he can ignore you until he's finished doing what he wants.

Don't let him run free with the other dogs and don't tie him out to separate them. Control the whole meeting by having them all leashed and show him what you want. Does that make sense?

OC , i don't think anyone would guarantee that neutering will curb this behaviour , but don't let the old " it'll kill his drive " argument sway your decision .

among the LEO's that i know , the forward thinking dog handlers now seem to be of the opinion that having testicles leads to unwanted dog fights , and has the dog distracted by the hope that one day he might get to use them , if you know what i mean lol .

furthermore , there appears to be no decrease in drive . i'd suggest that in many cases the main reason to not neuter is the ego of the human involved .

I don't know ian, maybe when it comes to searching for drugs and that kind of work, but I'd have to see firsthand a dog that will apprehend someone who doesnt want to be once they arent producing testosterone.

pretty sure there are RCMP handlers using neutered dogs for their work , and we got some pretty bad " runners " leading them on chases before being taken down .

beyond that , there's some pretty rank females who are capable of the work .

sorry for the 'jack , OC . . .

also, stop comparing your current dog to your past dogs.

even if it's the same breeding & the same breed, it doesn't mean they will be the exact same as previous dogs you've had.
It's apples & oranges.

As others have said, watch the dogs body language and correct him the second he starts to raise a paw or try to reach underneath the other dog.

Correcting him once he's already on or under the other dog is only teaching him that he can hump a couple times or grab a sniff and then has to stop.

And as someone else said, no off leash and strict controlled meetings with other dogs.

 Quote: steve strom

Before you start cranking on him, try to think more about timing then how hard you're gonna do it. If you wait till he's lathering up the boxers used to be theres, you're too late.

It needs to be interrupted before it gets started, and its started when he first starts thinking about it. I think to this point, all you've done is frustrate him and made him more determined to do what he wants, or maybe taught him he can ignore you until he's finished doing what he wants.

Don't let him run free with the other dogs and don't tie him out to separate them. Control the whole meeting by having them all leashed and show him what you want. Does that make sense?

 Quote: Wendy Lefebvre

also, stop comparing your current dog to your past dogs.

even if it's the same breeding & the same breed, it doesn't mean they will be the exact same as previous dogs you've had.
It's apples & oranges.

As others have said, watch the dogs body language and correct him the second he starts to raise a paw or try to reach underneath the other dog.

Correcting him once he's already on or under the other dog is only teaching him that he can hump a couple times or grab a sniff and then has to stop.

And as someone else said, no off leash and strict controlled meetings with other dogs.

Good stuff!

JMO!

Betty, I'm sure there are some dogs who do it partially for the "good feeling" but I don't think that's always the case. We use to have a male rottweiler and a male lab/australian shepherd mix, both neutered. The mix would always mount the rottie but only when someone other than my wife or I came to the house. Never any other time. It was very clearly, although we didn't understand it at the time, his showing the stranger that he was dominant over the rottie. I would think that if it was for the "good feeling" that he would just do it at any random time.