I ended up returning Riley. Cloud(second bird) was so much braver and calmer that I figured I would try and find another more like her.

I got another young blue female yesterday after putting together the big cage. This morning I had both birds take hulled sunflower seed pieces from me. That was even after the little blue girl got out of the cage and had to be shooed back in.

I think the big cage gives them more confidence to interact. They know they can leave if they get too uncomfortable so they choose to stick around.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/CathyG/IMG_0731_zps472e0eff.jpg

It's going to be time to start clicker training once they will take treats consistently.

 Quote: Cathy Goessman

I ended up returning Riley. Cloud(second bird) was so much braver and calmer that I figured I would try and find another more like her.

I got another young blue female yesterday after putting together the big cage. This morning I had both birds take hulled sunflower seed pieces from me. That was even after the little blue girl got out of the cage and had to be shooed back in.

I think the big cage gives them more confidence to interact. They know they can leave if they get too uncomfortable so they choose to stick around.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/CathyG/IMG_0731_zps472e0eff.jpg

It's going to be time to start clicker training once they will take treats consistently.

Cathy, I hope you will find & post on a Budgie/Parakeet chat-board specifically -- These birds do not suffer from being "singletons" in an otherwise all-human flock ... They bond with their owners & are quite happy in a "one bird home" provided they are given PLENTY of Quality Time with their human/s

But I must echo what others have also said here, Re: Given the opportunity, a Budgie/Parakeet will form a STRONGER pair-bond with one of its OWN species -- Even 2 hens housed together will behave as MATES with one playing the cock role, and the other laying & brooding clutches of infertile eggs like a "revolving door" year-round (even without a nest-box) ... So if you are primarily interested in taming & training a Budgie/Parakeet, then in my 60 years' experience of keeping them as pets, your Best Bet is a LONE fledgling Male (IMHO).

I joined the budgie talk forum when I got the first bird. Nobody mentioned that two females could still have breeding type problems.

Cloud made the choice for me. She wouldn't stop pestering and biting the other bird when it tried to eat or when I was trying to interact with it.

I took it back to PetSmart and told them my bird was beating up on it. The pet care manager told the employee to check it over. The employee proceeded to open the box in the middle of the store. Less than a second later the little blue girl is looking down at us from the rafters. He also rolled his eyes at me when I suggested that the sick room would have been a better place to open the box. I don't know what he was thinking. You can't really check over a bird from overhead anyway.

Do you know of a different/better board than TalkBudgies?

 Quote: Cathy Goessman

Do you know of a different/better board than TalkBudgies?

Sorry, Cathy, I've never accessed any Parakeet board -- Used to post on a Cockatiel site more than 10 years ago, but don't recall its name ... Here are some things I do recommend for you:

1. Visit your Local Library -- There are numerous good books in print on the Breeding, Care, and Training of Budgies.

2. Find some Local Breeders who will sell directly to an individual Pet buyer -- Check out their facilities ... Look for clean, spacious aviaries & odor-free bird rooms, and ask about their Guarantee Policy (you know the drill).

3. Make friends with the best one -- Explain that you want a Fledgling Cock to hand-tame & clicker-train ... Work WITH them on selecting the baby bird (take THEIR advice on temperament, but choose the color YOU want)

4. Ask your breeder if they will please demonstrate the Right Way to properly Clip its Wings -- You do NOT want to do an amature Botch-Job and end up with a Medical Emergency (once you learn to do it correctly, there's no danger of cutting the quick) ... You always want to LEAVE the last 2 longest flight feathers INTACT (looks natural, and allows them just enough loft to avoid falling to the floor like a ton-of-bricks if they try to fly).

5. NEVER trust your dog not to molest a small bird, EVER -- If you're lucky & they become Best Friends that's great, but only under your immediate supervision every moment ... All it would take is one "little accident" for a Fatality to occur, and you would never forgive yourself (!!!)

I'm keeping Cloud the violet pied girl above.

 Quote: Candi Campbell

5. NEVER trust your dog not to molest a small bird, EVER -- If you're lucky & they become Best Friends that's great, but only under your immediate supervision every moment ... All it would take is one "little accident" for a Fatality to occur, and you would never forgive yourself (!!!)

Yep, that's the biggest reason the bird is staying fully flighted. In the off chance it has to be able to get away from Tanner I want the bird to be able to get out of his reach. Her cage is in a separate room that I close the door to when I'm gone but I'd still like her to be able to fly well.

She is now taking millet from me relatively confidently and perching on my finger somewhat tentatively so we're going to start clicker training in the next few days. I'm going to start with target training and go from there.