Take him, take him, take him---until it becomes no big deal.

I'd just get out in a field, stand in one place, and calmly wait for eye contact. Mark and reward eye contact with a big party/jackpot. He needs to learn that HE activates YOU. Not the other way around.

And again, it doesn't sound like your treats are high enough value. You can either bring better treats or make them higher value through a little hunger.

You must get ANY behavior solid before you add any distractions.

That should be in a very comfortable area for the dog even if it means in your house or backyard.

From that point you "gradually" add higher and higher distractions.

That can take days, weeks, whatever depending on each individual dog.

To add high level distractions before the dog really understands what you want is a no winner.

Does your dog return what you throw if he's in his own yard, home, whatever?

If not then you need to work on the retrieve with back chaining.

Tossing the ball and hoping for the best wont work if your dog doesn't have a natural retrieve every time.

 Quote: Bob Scott

If your in the middle of a very high distraction situation just be sure your not using the high value reward as a bribe.

I don´t reward at all if he isn't focused on me. I try to distract him with exercises he loves and if he then chooses me as distraction I reward with high value food, but I do not lure him with it. Is then still a bribe?

I also move away from this high distraction situation to a spot, where is able to ignore them. When this works well, r on I try to go a level higher.

You need to stay at each level until your sure it's bomb proof for the dog.

You say he is rewarded when he chooses you.

does he immediately go back to the unwanted behavior or does he then keep his focus on you?

If I'm in a situation where my dog would consistently ignore my command then I would have no problem giving a correction equal to the misbehavior and also at a level the dog need to ignore the distraction.

How much of a distraction is entirely up to the temperament of the dog.

If a simple poke in the side or a tap on the head gets the dog's attention then so be it.

If the dog needs something stronger then do it. Just don't over do it.

You'll know by the dog's response if it's not enough, just right or to much.

I LOVE marker training but not all do it and keep the dog's respect. Then it's a leadership/management issue.

Yes, I'm sure it is a leadership/management issue. I also believe, not everything can be reached with marker training, although practise it regularly. But in the outside world it does not always work, especially when it concerns a unwanted comportment.

When I succeed to be more attractive than the distraction in the surroundings, then they stay with me as long as I do engagement fun with them. Often just the "look" command is enough as a reminder.

I also give sometimes a little tap on the head or with the foot a little kick to the backside,not as punishment, just to reminds them, that I had said something. Normally they even remember what and ten they follow the command I had previously given or regain interest for the game, just with delay.

For the moment I prefer to move slowly away from this area. This normally works with enough engagement, but far from 100%. So I go to a spot with a lower distraction level, hoping after some time I will be able to aproach it again.

Corrections I also give if engagment doesn't help enough, or when someone with another dog passes by, who pulls against my dog. Then mine will start pulling too. Thats a situation where I give him a command or a "no" as warning fo come back to me and keep himself neer my side, the opposite one of where the other dog comes.

Since I have taken Forrest's self stydy course I'm working much more on engagement and have learned to be more aware of the level of distractions.

No idea if I will reach my goals within the lifetime of my dogs. Future will tell.

I was told to let a pup be a pup. Let her play a bit and be distracted then call her in (make sure she will come before calling), give a treat and then let her play again. So she learns that she can play but coming to you is also good and she still gets to play again.
I have also been told that make sure the obedience on walks is fun and brief. A quick sit and then away. A fetch and reward then OK.
We live by the New Forest UK so I am trying to teach her to ignore the ponies, donkey and cows. This is my current issue.
Your dog does sound like a high powered one so the above may be difficult to achieve. Good Luck.

Hi, thanks for your reply. Yes, especially one of my dogs can be high powered if I make the misteke to overwhelm her. I am 100% of your opinion. That's why I'm always trying to have fun and distract her with engagement skills, as far as I have them. The whole thing is a learning process for my dog and me too. Some times on walks you cannot foresee with what you will be confronted. They are no puppies any more, so sometimes a correction (not force!) can also be necessary.

Great pleasure to hear from you and good luck for you too.