Need an opinion on how to train Harry to yield to pressure.
Leash pressure training is going well, with the dd collar.
But when grooming etc, trying to move his rear end is extremely frustrating. Using either a flat hand, or fingers. He will not yield to the pressure to move his body. He pushes back with all his might.
It has made it extremely annoying, especially when checking for foxtails.

I muzzle him through the process, as trying to manipulate his body while doing any of these things, can result in him turning to snap.
Everything else minus the four wheeling is fine.
Also, when placed in a down, he postures his head onto my foot. I do not allow it, and have sprayed bitter apple and muskol onto a training sock. The unpleasant smell as long as it's fresh, keeps him off my foot, and I will walk into him when he tries to posture over my foot, to take my space back. I can walk into him to take my space, but I need to be able to do this from the side too.
Any opinions?
And he has been vet checked, he is in perfect health. I think it's just plain dominance. We follow all the steps in the dealing with a dominant dog. But on body pressure, he just won't yield.

By the way, I understand oppositional reflex, and realize when you push against most dogs, they will push back. But I don't approve of him trying to target my hand with the body pressure. Open handed, like you would to push a horse to the side, is gentle.
Ex. If he is sitting on the grooming table or floor, and I need him in a stand position, I place my open hand under the belly and push up. He will push back. Same with a stand, trying to position him better on the table, even noosed will have him targeting the hand manipulating him. This is why I work with the muzzle.
I had to shave him down due to summer matting. Even a brush every second day did not stop it from matting up, because he is switching to his adult coat.
It also makes grooming quicker, as his hair was at about 5 inches long,now it's only an inch and maybe a half.

His resource guarding stopped, as he no longer has any resources to guard. He is learning to exist in the home, chews and toys are for the crate only.
I also bought a Kuranda bed, for the long down. The floor mat didn't work, as he would keep shifting, and protesting being put back on a foot mat.

We can not use the bike, or four wheeler, as his pulling against the collars of any type has him choking himself to death, and prongs amp the hell outta him.

So I guess my question would more likely on how to work with a dog with high oppositional reflex and what ever form of aggression he shows with being pressured.

Use the opposition reflex to your advantage and push from the side that you know he will push back.

As soon as he moves mark and reward.

No commands until he starts moving easily with a touch.

Just a thought!

You could also capture the behavior and mark and reward when he moves in the direction you want him to then put a command on it.

Don't know if you use a grooming table or what but do with without a grooming session so there is no negative connection to the grooming.

And ignore the snap? He is muzzled, so most I would get is a muzzle bounce.

We do have a table, it's an old kitchen cupboard with a counter top, and nonstop mat. I am teaching him to climb up, as I cannot lift his 80lb arse with my back anymore.
We haven't quit gotten to climbing the table, I started with a step the kids used to brush their teeth when they were small. Front paws first, Mark, reward. Today I tried moving into him to have his rear move with paws still in the step, but he pushed back, and muzzle bounced my leg.

He places very well on the bed.
Due to severe bug bites, we can no longer walk until the cold weather comes. The horseflies are causing sores, that ooze within hrs. So I have to keep cleaning them with antibacterial soap from the vet. It's an allergy I have too, so I guess I would love for someone to give me a indoor program, even if it's starting from scratch, that we can do for the next month and a half to make up for the lack of outdoor time.
There is no where here to go to get away from the bugs. My screens are coated as we speak. All bites were under his neck and behind his head.
Waiting on winter with a vengeance.
Open to any schedule anyone can suggest. I have all day...sigh, week, month...
His day starts at 9am, ends at 9pm if that helps.

I never thought of that Bob. Smack to the head for me! Going to try that with his morning obedience work!

 Quote: Bob Scott

Use the opposition reflex to your advantage and push from the side that you know he will push back.

As soon as he moves mark and reward.

No commands until he starts moving easily with a touch.

Just a thought!

You could also capture the behavior and mark and reward when he moves in the direction you want him to then put a command on it.

Don't know if you use a grooming table or what but do with without a grooming session so there is no negative connection to the grooming.

Don't know, if this might be of any help for you. But it's worth to try.I've taugth miy dogs various behaviors this way. When I had the oportunity often enough for capturing, they were leaning the behavior quite smoothly and quickly and without any stress and without the risk of creating a negative connection to something which might be connected with it.