I have been working with a dog on the distance for a long period of time but still can't get rid of his nasty habit of breaking, when either on down,stand,sit(long ones)as soon as he sees squirrels or other dogs. I can stop he from approaching other dogs (he does this rarely - but still does), but squirrels and cats are really pain in the ass. He even tries to jump on the tree - few times even succeding to get there. What is the best way to get rid of this stupid behaviour?

Two handler long line with a prong, complete with cats and dog distractions. I will add on to this after the fact... I would probley take a few steps back in training this... to a shorter distance and shorter time add distractions until the dog could do it then add time and distance... go back to right next to the dog if you have to... then add a distraction and correct for it.... then so on and so on.

One thing is clear, the dog is not ready for a long down far away under that distraction... back it up jack!

Guaranteed the first trial you go to, during the long down a Squirel will dart across the field out of the big Oak tree by blind 3, stick his tongue out at your dog and run.

I would have to agree you maybe trying to skip vital steps to get the product you want. There are several ways to get what you want. I would use food like hotdogs or whatever the dog likes. I would start in the heel position and while your walking stop and put him in a down stay. Step off with your left foot and immediately do a about face and drop some food in front of him. The reason I like food cause it makes the dog a little more calmer. After that praise him and walk away from him agian and take a couple of steps and do a about face and drop some more food. Keep doing this and go further and further each time. Then start spacing out the food drops untill you can take them away completely. Then you can use toys and stuff like that. Or you could use the e-collar, but make sure there is someone who knows how to use one. The way I mentioned will take longer but I think it helps with the repore with you and the dog(I am just not a big ecollar fan). If you do decide to do the collar talk to Lou Castle on guidance. Hope this helps, I did this with my dog and he has done a down stay for over ten min with distractions. But just remember to talk and praise the dog in a calm voice if you use a high pitched voice he will want to come to you even more when you want him to stay. Good luck!

Austin

Austin??? Hey buddy, not to diss you or anything, but I'm having a hard time seeing how the food reward system you mention is going to correct a dog that can't keep a down due to crazy prey/hunt drive???

I'm not a big e-collar fan either, although I am not morally opposed to them or anything. I did have to use one once to fix the same problem you're talking about--and it worked like a charm. As a matter of fact, I have no problems recommending the e-collar for this application to others (provided you work with someone who has lots of experience with this tool). No ill effects on the dog, either--but several years later he still won't break a long down even if a bomb goes off.

Pete Felknor

Hey Pete!!!! Its called principles of conditining. Something that says if do something repeated the dog will be conditioned to do it!! The e-collar is fine to use when used properly. But what I have seen the dog knows when it has it on and in a competition you cant use a ecollar. To each its own if you pefer the ecollar then that is fine. Just trying to give another idea to use. All that what I said should be tied into focus work were the dog is focused on the handler, therefore ignoring the decoy. Do you understand what I am saying now.

Austin