While the method is good for its intended purpose, I'm not thrilled with the tool. It's not unheard of for the bungee to break. Some will say that it should be replaced and inspected regularly but we all know that those kind of things sometimes fall by the way. You can't really tell how old rubber is with an inspection. It could have been damaged under the cover but the cover will hide that damage.
The idea is to have some kind of system that has some give to it and will pull the dog back if he releases the bite.
I prefer to use a steel cable that's covered with plastic and hook it to the center of a panel of a chain link fence. I use a piece of mountain climbing rope threaded through 5–6 pieces of different links so that it spreads the force out instead of placing it all on one part of the fence. The fence has some give but it's not going to break.
Lou Castle has been kicked off this board. He is an OLD SCHOOL DOG TRAINER with little to offer.
Have not done the fence thing, but we use climbing line that has a 10-1 give. I think there is line out there with even more. Every ten feet of line gives about a foot.
For grip improvement that works very well, and it is not going to break under normal wear. The stuff is made to be safe that way. . .falling off a mountain sucks. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
To help develop that killer knockdown power we do use the bungee line.
To provide back pressure on the dog which helps facilitate some training goals.
For instance, increasing strike power. The dog learns that he has to take off with more power and really push off into the helper to get a bite. Theory is that over time the dog will more often take off with that power when there is no line.
Or building grip, the dog takes a grip at the stretch point of the line so there is back pressure. The dog has to keep a hard grip to keep the bite on. Same thing, teaching the dog to take a hard bite and not let go or chew.
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