I was asked about leather finish in a different thread, so I will post my experiences here.

Auster is spoiled and will drag you through the underbrush around the yard to find the right spot to do her business. Needless to say, all my leashes looked bad. Even saddle soap wasn't working, and I use the kind with built in conditioner/polish (great stuff, doesn't compare to the plain glycerin bars).

I used a leather finish called Resolene on one of her leashes in hopes of making it look better, and it exceeded my expectations. The stuff is really safe (drinking it might upset your stomach). Both of the leashes in the pics marked as finished have two coats. Best of all, by using resolene and then sanding with fine grit sand paper you can make the edges look really nice. If you have ever burnished edges (put some sort of goo on and rubbed until your arm is ready to fall off) this is much easier with almost the same results. There are other products out there as well, but I find it easier to apply a liquid than a spray. I have a can of Leather Sheen and some clear spray paint (I have heard that this works from other leatherworkers) that I will try sooner or later as well.

Finished leather is more water resistant and doesn't have to be cleaned as often, but it is a little bit slicker (still easier to grip than dry beta biothane, haven't compared them when wet). It's also shinier, and I have found that the color will darken ever so slightly (hard to tell unless you have two and can do a side by side comparison).

Some leashes come pre-finished, so if your leash already has finish you will need to use the same type of finish on it (either acrylic or oil). If you want to dye your leashes and collars for easy IDing (no arguing who owns the red one) you will need to do this before finishing.

New and used leashes
http://www.tarheelweb.com/i/compare.jpg

The sides (12oz leather)
http://www.tarheelweb.com/i/side.jpg

Abused leashes again
http://www.tarheelweb.com/i/resoleash.jpg

A traffic lead I made that shows the "mellow gloss" very well, this one has 3 coats
http://www.tarheelweb.com/i/100_0445.jpg

I have been making leashes since 1994. I used every type of leather. I found the best for any type of training. Is number 1 English Bridle Leather. I like 10-12 ounce leather. Even if it gets wet it won't stretch like latigo. Don't have to oil it harness leather. If you don't keep up with harmenss leather it will crack on you. When you can it dirty wipe it off with a damp rag. My leash is 6 years old. I have done every thing possible to it and it's still works fine. Just a little broke in and soft to the hand.
Ray

My all-time favorite leash is my Amish made braded leash, I get outstanding grip with it. It is getting a little funky however.... any tips on cleaning the braided leashes?

I saw a leash at Sch club the other day. It was a combo of nylon and rubber. It had a great feel and didn't slip in your hands at all.

Matt....first clean it with saddle soap, condition it with Lexol or black rock...saddle soap or Lexol cleaner and then Lexol conditioner are available in most shoe stores...check up at Ross Park ....or out on 19 a bit further there are at least 4 saddle shops where you can get stuff like this...I found that black rock, which is a brown paste, really gives the leather a great suppleness and feel..

also, I'd use a toothbrush to apply the saddle soap, and really scrub to get all the grime off, and the wipe it down with a clean towel to get the rest off.

equips saddle food is also GREAT for making leather soft and supple!

You are in Germany Meghan...pick up a tin of Passier saddle conditioner...awesome stuff too!

I'll be sure to keep an eye out for it! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />