I was just wondering if the experienced PPD trainers on this board could talk a little about the following questions.
1. How important is a full mouth bite "grip" in a PPD versus just frontal bites?
2. Can you take a dog that has an excellent temperament, with very good nerves and make him a very very serious PPD? I'm talking about a very nice dog.
3. What are the down sides "if any" to training a PPD with inexperienced and helpers in training? NOTE: The helpers in training are under the direct supervision of a very skilled trainer.
4. Are there any draw backs for a young dog that has been trained in basic obedience, tracking, and bitework? Mainly geared towards the sport of Schutzhund.
5. For a dog that has had the above basic training, what is the earliest "as a rule" that the dog should be started in serious PPD training? I'm sure it depends on the dog, but in general if all things are in place.
6. Am I correct in assuming that a correctly trained PPD dog will always be able to discriminate between friend and foe? Passive and non passive events. Or is that an unrealistic goal? Too mant scenarios to train for?
Since no one has answered I will toss my 2 cents in what we are doing at our club.
1) Some dogs at our clubs are cross training for ASR/PSA and still be used for home protection. The handlers work on stuff at club with the other members they cant work at home with wife and kids.
2) Certain similar drives are used in both sport and PP. I believe for most people who train PP exclusive they stress the dog in defense earlier than sport people who probably work the dog in prey more and fret over the bite
3) We do car jack, hidden sleeve, will do home attack scenario. Suit should be there next week for targeting bites.
4) Now I am new to this but I was told by a guy who did for police depts for 20yrs that muzzle fighting was the crux of his dogs training, and that a dog that would actively enagae a man during this type of training would in real life bite the sheeeet out of a bad guy
5) We reguraly work handler protection scenario.
My own take on this is that PP/PSD need a more civil edge to them and must have at least a moderate defensive drive. Some sport dogs can be trained thru holes in their temperment and worked exculsively in prey and be titled.
Brad,
Could you say something about how you introduce the handler protection scenarios and some specific scenarios that are set up?
Dog is sent in on decoy from say 15feet, arm sleeve. Dog bites ,holds and is outed. Dog is put in down or setz and handler pats down the suspect looking for weapons. As they start to walk away , first decoy is held in place , handler goes about 10 feet away , dog is still fixed on first decoy. Second decoy hops out of hiding and attacks handler. Also just do escape bite on first decoy running after apprehended, and a rebite on 2nd attack after suspect is apprehended. We will do car jack tomorrow night, so will see how it goes, my first time with hidden sleeve.
Brad,
Could you say something about how you introduce the handler protection scenarios and some specific scenarios that are set up?
You're sitting on a chair between 2 other chairs. Decoy comes towards you and starts to agitate. trowing chairs averywhere without harming you. Handler rises and leaves. Decoy folows handler. Dog warns handler that someone is following him. Handler goes to a thirth party and stands back to back. Decoy tries to lure dog into biting him or leaving the handler. after a minute or so he appologises and shakes handlers hand. thirth party leaves giving the heel command. (tricky one) 5 coants later handler leaves in opposite direction. Few meters further decoy engages.
Few dogs will perform this one perfect. the tricky part being the thirth party involved. Most dogs are so focussed on the decoy that when they hear the usual command they follow.
This was actual a training scenario for a BR training. In BR during this excercise only one command my be given and this at the very beginning off the excercise.
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