I recently adopted a rescue chihuahua. She came from a puppy mill, and is obviously very skiddish around people. She has warmed up alot in the past few weeks, however she has seperation anxiety. She follows me around all the time, and if she can't find me, will roam the house and pace until she knows where I am. I keep her in a crate when I am gone, and frequently when I am at home, in hopes that she will get used to it. She scratches at it, howls, and whines when left alone. If I am in the house, she is fine. This behavior arises at night, when her crate is in another room, or when I am gone from the house. I read on the Q & A board that it was reccomended to leave the dog in the crate at all times. However, I'm afraid that she will become distrustful, and less sociable than she already is. Is that the best solution? I want to instill discipline in her, but I don't know my limits since she hasn't had a good life to begin with. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I've never had a rescue dog, but my vizsla mix had trouble with separation anxiety for a while. It helps a lot not to put a big emphasis on your coming of going from home, try to keep it low-key. I'm not sure where you read that a dog should stay in it's crate at all times, and maybe I misunderstood you, but I don't think a dog should be in it's crate ALL the time. Although it is important to have her in the crate even while you're home sometimes, so it's not just the place she goes before you leave.

If you're not already feeding in the crate, you might want to start doing that, since it sounds like the dog isn't a huge fan of the crate. You also might consider having a toy in there for her (although my anxious dogs have always ignored toys, some people swear by it). I've also taught my dogs the crate command, so they get a treat when they go in.

It also helped me a lot to give my dog more excercise, a sleepy dog doesn't care quite as much where you're going. It's easy to fall into the bad habit or not exercising a dog as much when they're really small, because it seems like just running around the house should be enough, but it's not. Mental stimulation is good, so, obedience sessions and games that compliment the training you're doing.

Another thing you can do is practice leaving for just a minute or so every now and then, so the dog gets used to seeing you leave and then come back. I did this by stepping out onto the porch, locking the door...waiting 30 seconds, and going back in. I'd increase the length I waited outside over time, and eventually he barely looked up if I left.

Anyway, that information is a little scattered, and others may have other suggestions too, but this is what helped me a lot. We went from a vizsla who was breaking out of crates and breaking down doors to a vizsla who sleeps right through comings and goings.

Good luck!

How old is this dog? THe age is relevant in the "treatment" of your situation, as is the amount of time the dog has been with you.

Does she get any exercise (if not, give her lots, if so, give her more)? Does she have anything to chew on in the crate? Marrow bones are a great distraction as are Kongs with various fillings.

IMO the most important thing is to make sure you aren't rewarding the behavior accidentally by coming to her or talking sweetly when she's crying for you. It's really, really hard sometimes, but ignoring the crying is the best option in most circumstances.

As far as the night howling in the crate goes, I recently had this problem with my new puppy and I got lots of good advice here that I'm happy to report worked! Keep the dog in your room, with the crate within reach of you. Then she can smell/hear you and you can stick your fingers in the crate for her to lick occasionally. It seriously took only 2 nights for this to work for me.

How long have you had this dog?

I think it's great that the dog has bonded with you and trusts you. Puppy mill dogs have such a crappy life. Just remember that you will NOT be doing the dog any favors be letting it get away with stuff because you feel sorry for it. It doesn't get the connection to past abuse and any permissiveness. It just wants a fair leader. Not saying you do this...just saying IF you do this, then DON'T! The following you around part isn't bad, IMO, that's what lowly pack members do. Is this a submissive dog? I would guess that it is. If so, I would consider doing some exercises to bolster the dog's confidence level.

*Sorry about the repeat advice that was already addressed with Heather's post...must have been typing when she was posting.

You already received great suggestions, so I'll add only a couple.

I have had all rescues, including dogs seized from people who were arrested for abuse and neglect. One thing I learned was that my dogs needed a reliable pack leader at least as much as strong confident dogs do.

I see confidence levels improve with motivational training -- in leaps and bounds. When the dog learns basic obedience from you and is rewarded for it, you bond with the dog and the dog benefits from improved confidence.

I want to add that when you leave the dog in the crate (or not in the crate, for that matter), leave her tired. I find that even if I have to get up early to do it, a big power walk in the mornings that I have to leave are invaluable. Dogs sleep more than we do, and leaving a dog to nap instead of worry is a big plus.

I agree with you about discipline, BTW. It's a big source of security to a dog to know without doubt that someone is in charge, and that she does not have to be. She needs to know that you protect, make decisions for, and lead your pack.

the dog is 3-5 yrs old, and I've had her for about 3 weeks. I haven't given her alot of exercise yet, because it has been about 20 degrees here! She only has about 3 teeth because of her poor care in the mill, so bones are out of the question!
She is in the crate throughout the day if I am here, and if she whimpers, I tell her NO in a firm voice. Since she doesn't howl when I am home, I am finding it hard to fix that problem. Other roommates have heard her, or I have heard her as I am approaching the door to walk in.
What exercises would you suggest to boost her confidence? I think that would be great for her, because she often rolls over in submission if I am picknig her up, and I would like her to stand on her feet!

P.S. Like Heather, I have had good success with leaving and popping back in after random lengths of time. I have also corrected (verbal) for vocalizing when I left. I have a recent rescue who screamed (yes, SCREAMED! Like having a root canal!) when I left. I started popping back in and saying "No!" as soon as I heard the screaming start from outside where I was lurking.

This did work. It took a few times, but it worked. And since I don't think that his screaming while I was gone was benefiting anyone, including him, I was glad to end it.

I would like to add that his confidence improved all the time with obedience training. When he came, his tail was always curled under his butt and he flinched when humans approached him. His tail is up like a flag now and he is solid when people approach. This kind of rehabilitating might take a few months, but, needless to say, it's very satisfying ---- very worthwhile.

 Quote: lauren bricking

What exercises would you suggest to boost her confidence? I think that would be great for her, because she often rolls over in submission if I am picknig her up, and I would like her to stand on her feet!

Here's an example of a confidence booster: Does she like to play tug? I had a VERY submissive rescue foster dog I was working with who peed everytime you went near him. He wouldn't play tug at all at first. Finally I got him to just put his mouth on it...REWARD THE DOG...then he grabbed it and tugged in the tiniest way...REWARD THE DOG...finally it got to the point where I would be able to gently play tug with him (if I played too much he would drop it and cringe) and I would LET HIM WIN the tug.

You should ordinarily NEVER do this with a PET dog that has dominance issues (this doesn't apply to future working dogs, who are allowed to "win" sometimes).

I allowed this dog to sleep on my bed (another something you shouldn't do with a dominant dog).

***This does not mean that you should not be the pack leader!! Still go first through doors, still walk with your dog next to you. A nervous dog likes to know that you're in charge...in makes them feel a sense of security.***

The biggest thing though was, as Connie has said, obedience training. Just make sure you know what you're doing...if you confuse the dog and she doesn't know what you're asking for, it can make matters worse. Sound thrilled when the dog gets it right!

A good one to start with if you're new to training is rewarding eye contact: Every time the dog looks at your eyes, give him a treat and say "YES" or "GOOD" or whatever (be consistant). I personally eventually mark that action with a word ("watch") so that I can do it when I need his attention.

But either way, this is something anyone can do and the dogs pick up on it right away. It has the double bonus of building the dog's confidence AND teaching it the marker word that means they did something right. It sets a good foundation for future obedience training since the dog learns, "She asks, I do, she likes, I eat!"

Finally, I'll emphasize something else Connie said--this may take a looong time. Have patience and a calm attitude...but no syrupy sympathy. The goal should be teaching the dog to enjoy life and learning.

Good luck to you!! Hope this helps.

PS- Eventually you can train her to stand from a rolled over position!!

I might also add that if it were me, I'd go easy on the corrections for the whining until my bond with the dog was really solid. You've only had the dog a short time and I wouldn't be surprised if the dog already has trust issues. Maybe a gentle correction?

Yes, I agree that a beginner might start with the very simple basics like "sit." I like the eye contact too. I teach that with a treat up near my face and an instant marker ("yes!") when the dog's eyes meet mine. It must always be instant so the dog is certain of what triggered that marker. Also, at first, the reward should follow the marker very quickly too, so the dog is clear about the marker's value.

I really like Leerburg's Basic Obedience video. It's motivational and fun, and loaded with all kinds of "living with a dog" hints.
http://www.leerburg.com/302.htm

(I have assigned it to people whose dog I was teaching manners.)

I really cannot say enough about motivational obedience work to forge a bond and booster the dog's confidence.

Also, very experienced dog folks here have suggested agility as a confidence booster, and it certainly makes sense to me!