Let me start by saying this is long and I am leaving much out.

Hope some one out there can help...

About three months ago I adopted a 1 yr old male American Bull dog/ Short haired pointer mix (maybe some pit too). He is a very sweet, eager to please, real people person dog. He has had several issues, some that we have made progress on and others – nothing. Not even a little despite all my efforts. I also have a rescued Greyhound (female)

Three major issues remain, being alone, coming home from work, and walks.

This dog can not handle being left alone – he gets destructive. I have tried crating but he keeps finding ways out of the crate which I can’t figure out because the crate is completely closed and locked when I get home. I have practiced leaving the house on a regular basis – between 5-10 times a day for between 5 minutes and 10 minutes.. I did this daily for about 6 weeks. No matter how many times we practiced, he can not get it. There is always some level of destruction. One the occasions he has gotten out of the crate the destruction has been severe – defecating in the house, curtains ripped off windows, a case of canned cat food eaten, gates hopped and my clothes eaten, and 2 couches destroyed in one day. He has been relegated to a small sunroom attached to the house and is left always with a Kong or Nylabone. 97% of the time there will be no damage (chewing molding or anything wood, relieving himself or ripping apart his bed). Leaving him in there would be a good solution except, the room gets hot in the summer and is not heated in the winter. Is it OK to leave him there?

When I come home from work it is complete mayhem. He races crazy through the house jumping on every one and everything, he used to nip at me – butt, hands, face, knees, anything, but has finally stopped that. I’ve noticed my Greyhound’s excited reaction to me coming home makes him worse, but she is controllable and I can calm her. EVERY DAY I let him in the house, grab his collar, make him sit and tell him no! when he jumps and everyday I get the same thing. He jumps up, I make him sit – over and over and over. The only change so far is no nipping. He will however nip any one who happens to come home at the same time I do (I live alone).

I walk the two dogs daily for 2-3 miles per night. I have even purchased a doggie back pack for him – each side holds a can of vegetables – to tire him out. He has a lot of energy and it does little to tire him. So the problem is he pulls on the leash, runs after squirrels, cats, other dogs (not aggressive just wants to say hi). This is very exhausting and not enjoyable but I do it every day. I constantly correct him but get no results. Last week I purchased a prong collar and have seen major improvement. He still pulls but stops when I correct, but only for that moment, still chases squirrels, cats, birds, dogs, etc. I’m worried the collar will put holes in him.

Can anyone give any suggestions?

Hi, Donna,

Welcome!

1. What kind of crate is it?

2. Do you exercise the dog well *before* you leave him alone?

3. Do you put a drag line on him before anyone comes to the house?

4. How hot (and how cold) is the sunroom?

5. When he jumps up on you, have you tried stepping aside or forward into his space so he loses his balance, all the while totally ignoring him? Or turning your back? You are rewarding his behavior. I don't know exactly how, whether your own reaction is excited attention or what, but he is being rewarded somehow for it.

You have posted a lot of stuff, so it will help if you answer those points so we can give you detailed suggestions (and reading material ).

Oh, and P.S. : Is the collar fitted properly?
http://leerburg.com/fit-prong.htm

Donna, you are certainly in the right place to get some suggestions. Barring mine, most will even be good.

Seriously, I'll address your three issues as noted.

Being left alone: You had mentioned that you crated him. I strongly feel this is the BEST option. If he is getting out of his crate, then research different crates. There are several on Leerburg that are darned near bullettproof, aside from being dog-proof. The heat in the summer could be a real issue, so a dependable crate would be ideal.

Jumping on people: When he moves to jump, step out of the way so he falls on his butt. Put your hand down on his head and say No. I need to mention that with a suitable crate, this will become less of an issue. He will be in his crate when you or guests come over, and you'll be able to get him calmed down while in the crate.

Pulling while on walks: Simplest solution for last. Make sure the prong collar is fitted well. Connie gave a great link. No, they are not cruel. No, they do not hurt the dog. Truth be told, they are FAR more humane than choke-collars and do no damage the way chokers do.

So, keep up the good work, bless you for adopting, and welcome to the community!

-Jim

Edited by Jim Thomas (06/06/2007 11:33 AM)
Edit reason: Prong collar adjustments

Yes to everything above. I want to add to it a little bit.

1) EXERCISE! If it's not tiring out your dog it's either not enough or not the right kind for your dog. It sounds like your dog needs drive satisfaction in exercise. My crazy boy was running with 2 weighted packs on a treadmill at like 8 mph (crazy fast) and I could not tire him. When I took him off the treadmill for water/rest break he would go crazy again. Now we do disc and he is tired in 15 minutes, twice a day.
This is what we do: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1djLMeUvQrE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjC9oq_emYs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTM5hViUuVc

2) You are putting all your attention to the "bad" behaviors. Get a clicker - the i-click form Leerburg is awesome! Let's start with the basics - 4 feet on the ground. When the dog has 4 feet on the ground, click and treat. If your dog can stand with 4 feet on the ground for and instant, you can work it up to a second, then a minute. Put the behavior of 4 feet on the ground on the cue "off."

Then put your dog on leash and wait for it to sit (without help). Click and treat. Repeat. Repeat. 30+ times every day.

Now with some sort of control (or bribery depending on your POV) you can do the same for attention.

When you have 4 feet on the ground a sit on command and a way to get attention, you can start with a sit/stay which can do wonders for crazy dogs. If you'd like a schedule on how exactly to do it, PM me.

Try this today. Let your dog in (wearing prong and drag line) and actively ignore it. Five minutes or until the dog calms and chills out. I have heard it taking up to 4 hours, so be ready for anything. Just do whatever you normally do, but pretend he doesn't exist. Keep a drag line on him and correct him for jumping on furniture, but don't talk to him and don't look at him.

If I can give you a bit of hope: I started working with my crazy dog 7 weeks ago on exercise and attention-getting/recall. He has recalled offleash from chasing a feral cat and from chasing ducks.

You have the patience of a saint! Best of luck!

Thanks all for your feedback. I thought I was dealing with a lost cause and I am very happy there is hope. He is truly a wonderful dog despite these remaining issues I am dealing with.

I will probably be back in a few days to let you know how things are going and to let you know I need more help

 Quote: donna sakkatos

I thought I was dealing with a lost cause ...

Heck, no.

You are dealing with common issues when you have a high-energy dog.

http://www.leerburg.com/302.htm

I should add that motivational training, in short upbeat sessions throughout the day, is a major exercise for engaging and tiring a high-energy dog .... when that brain is challenged and busy, the whole dog is constructively drained of some of that leftover frustrated energy. As Anne says, postive reinforcement of the behaviors you DO want is much more effective than always having to say "no."

And marker training is THE way (IMHO) to go for that motivational training.
http://www.leerburg.com/markers.htm

I use a voice marker ("yes!"); lots of people use a clicker as a marker.

Ed says somewhere (many places, probably) that timing is the difference between good training and great training. Markers allow you perfect timing. Set a marker in advance (for any wanted behavior) so the dog associates the marker with good stuff. Then you can mark the exact behavior you want, even when that behavior just happens randomly. Suddenly, the dog realizes that this certain behavior, in the middle of a whole bunch of unrewarded activities, resulted in marking, rewarding, and praise. It's a lightbulb moment.


And consistency is just as crucial. If you EVER reward unwanted behavior, the dog learns that "sometimes that works, so let's try it again."

I forgot to answer some of your questions..

1.sunroom can get as high as 100 degrees in summer and as low as 20 degrees in winter.

2. The crate was a wire crate that folds inside itself when not in use. I'm afraid to go that route again as previously he pooped in it every day. Never pee, but it is no fun to know you are coming home to his craziness and his poop EVERY Day. I always ignored him when I first came in, never looked at him and still he barked like mad.

3. I do not exercise him in the morning and YES, I know I should. I'm not a morning person but can not longer avoid it and will start that immediately. Siiigh.

4. What is a drag line.

I typically walk the dogs within 5 minutes of getting home from work. They have typically not been out in 8-10 hours. Should I prolong the time before I walk them and is that really fair? 8-10 hours is a long time. Is the walk the reward he is getting to continue to act like a tnut?

 Quote: donna sakkatos

I forgot to answer some of your questions..

1.sunroom can get as high as 100 degrees in summer and as low as 20 degrees in winter.

2. The crate was a wire crate that folds inside itself when not in use. I'm afraid to go that route again as previously he pooped in it every day. Never pee, but it is no fun to know you are coming home to his craziness and his poop EVERY Day. I always ignored him when I first came in, never looked at him and still he barked like mad.

3. I do not exercise him in the morning and YES, I know I should. I'm not a morning person but can not longer avoid it and will start that immediately. Siiigh.

4. What is a drag line.

I typically walk the dogs within 5 minutes of getting home from work. They have typically not been out in 8-10 hours. Should I prolong the time before I walk them and is that really fair? 8-10 hours is a long time. Is the walk the reward he is getting to continue to act like a tnut?

http://www.leerburg.com/housetraining.htm

I would absolutely positively start over with crate training and a better crate. No question. Every challenge is addressed in the above link, as well as on the video #302 (linked earlier).

A drag line is a short leash that you have on the dog indoors so you have control without having to grab the collar. You can buy one that will last forever:
http://leerburg.com/leashes.htm#drag

You can also cut the handle-end off an old leash.

Leaving a tired dog is going to change the activity (destruction) that his frustrated energy causes.

I would give the reward, any reward (walk, attention, treats, anything he likes) at the moment that he is presenting wanted behavior.

With a new dog, I have stood there with the leash and the keys, like a statue, until the dog is calm and quiet, then marked and praised and clipped on the leash and started the walk.

Conversely, that reward (or any reward, like attention) is never given when unwanted behavior, like yipping and jumping and racing around, is displayed. That just teaches the dog to do that in order to get the reward.

I would read about markers and set a marker immediately. You can teach "sit," for example, and mark it (click, or maybe "yes!" in a certain high pleased tone) the instant his butt hits the floor, then reward, so the dog starts to get it about markers. You want him to want to elicit that marker from you.

Yes, I agree that the sunrooom is too hot and too cold. Crate crate crate.

I can not thannk you guys enough! We have made some dramatic improvement. The prong collar, now properly fit, works like a charm, and walks are actually enjoyable again!

Duke will now sit on command before I allow him in the house after I get home from work. The prong collar goes on immediately and it works beautifully.

I have increased his walks to 2 miles TWICE per day and he has not done anymore damage.

We are going to try the crate training tomorrow. Quite frankly, I'm nervous but you guys have really helped a lot with everything else so I am going to give it a go.

Duke and I THANK YOU!

 Quote:

I can not thannk you guys enough! We have made some dramatic improvement. The prong collar, now properly fit, works like a charm, and walks are actually enjoyable again!

Duke will now sit on command before I allow him in the house after I get home from work. The prong collar goes on immediately and it works beautifully.

I have increased his walks to 2 miles TWICE per day and he has not done anymore damage.

Wowee!

Good work Donna.. and helpfull Leerburg forum members! Keep it up