I have decided to work harder on training my dog. I want to get her basic obedience to be solid under distraction because I really want her to pass the CGC.

I recently ordered one of the 3 dvd sets (pack structure,basic obedience and remote collar training). I can't wait for them to show up! The FREE videos on this site are so interesting that I bet a lot can be learned from he dvd's!

So I was hoping to get some opinions. I'm considering a do over on her recall since the "come" command has gotten worn out. I have been inconsistent in correcting her for not doing it, and other people also use it with no follow through. Do you think it would be helpful to switch the command to something like "here"?

During a training session when I call her with "come" she does the Rin Tin Tin run right for me and sits in front like she's in a dog show. Every time!

However, In real life she will look at me, take a few steps and then take a detour to sniff a little, consider it again, and then come if nothing better is going on.

As you know, correcting this consistently in real life is tough. Even on the long line it often involves a little chase, and by the time I catch her too much time has passed for the correction to be meaningful.

She's so smart, it's like she knows that if she runs real fast in circles I can't get the end of the line! She also knows that I won't go out on the pool cover at my fathers house.

Hence the remote collar dvd!

Should I change the command? Or will more consistent correction be enough?

I like to use "Hier" and/or thier name. E collar for me was the best device for teaching recall. while in the training stage try to remember never give a command you can't correct or reward for. I don't know the drive level of your dog but when my two were fully cranked up in drive to chase or fight it took a full stim to get them to understand Hier means Hier and out means out.

Based on what you've describe it sounds like your pup is being willfully disobedient and that can only be solved by corrections. I don't think at least at this point changing the command will help. I think you should only change the command if there is some kind of confict with the command you are using.
The e-collar should help with the timing of corrections but like you've already pointed out , you have to be more consistant.

Why are you letting go of the line on a dog with no reliable recall? Get a 30 or 50 foot line & hold onto it. Dog will not have the option to run & you chase (making a game of it all) if you don't let go. Reel him in when you recall until he understands that not coming is not an option. JMO


ETA... if you are going to correct the dog (this is if you are absolutly sure the dog understands the command & refuses to perform it) GO TO THE DOG. DO NOT correct the dog when you have to reel him into you or if he comes but takes his time getting to you.... Or you will teach him that bad things happen when he comes to you And that is not what you want to teach him.

 Quote: dennis jones

I like to use "Hier" and/or thier name. E collar for me was the best device for teaching recall. while in the training stage try to remember never give a command you can't correct or reward for. I don't know the drive level of your dog but when my two were fully cranked up in drive to chase or fight it took a full stim to get them to understand Hier means Hier and out means out.

Thanks. I really do try to be consistent, its just hard! I try to not even use the command unless I'm in he position to correct or reward. Most of the time if I just whistle and walk away I have a much better chance of her following me, so thats what I do now if I can't correct.

My dog is pretty driven, but she doesn't have a ton of fight in her for her breeding. Our first trainer actually suggested training her in explosives detection and selling her to the state police. She's a lot of dog for one person, but we are doing really well on most fronts. She has a sweet personality.

Thats why I love this forum. Its so nice to be able to talk to other people who have experience in dogs with drive.

I have found that other dog owners mostly have no idea about what drive means. Most of the problems they face are a non issue for me because my dog is so smart, but other stuff pops up that they would never dream of. Stuff like crazy barking and lunging at moving cars. Or the desire to swim out into the middle of the harbor to retrieve a toy, in 20 degree weather, as the tide goes out.

Anyway, I do reward EVERY TIME. I've actually even taken to carrying a toy with me because she's not that into food treats. Is good to know that you have had positive experience with the remote collar, from what you said I think I will be able to sharpen it up no problem.

Thanks!

 Quote: Anne Jones

Why are you letting go of the line on a dog with no reliable recall?

Thats the thing, I think she has become smart to the line. She will come absolutely every time if I'm holding the line. I'm talking every time for a month. I'll get to the point where I feel like I can trust her enough to let her drag it and thats when this starts.

 Quote: Anne Jones

ETA... if you are going to correct the dog (this is if you are absolutly sure the dog understands the command & refuses to perform it) GO TO THE DOG. DO NOT correct the dog when you have to reel him into you or if he comes but takes his time getting to you.... Or you will teach him that bad things happen when he comes to you And that is not what you want to teach him.

I am really good about this. Even if I'm frustrated I never punish her in any way if she comes to me, even if it takes time. If I reel her in I'm neutral about it.

Along with timing issues maybe my corrections are haven't been strong enough to get the message through.

Thanks!

 Quote: Reggie Bruster

Based on what you've describe it sounds like your pup is being willfully disobedient and that can only be solved by corrections. I don't think at least at this point changing the command will help. I think you should only change the command if there is some kind of confict with the command you are using.
The e-collar should help with the timing of corrections but like you've already pointed out , you have to be more consistant.

Oh, she's totally just being devilish! She's almost eleven months old now and testing me like crazy all the time. Just last night we had an argument about whether or not it was bed time.

Thank you for the advice, it makes a lot of sense to me. Between your advice and the last two replies I can definitely see where I have gone wrong.

Are there certain distractions that cause your dog to avoid your recall? If she is good with restrained recalls you could set up distractions that normally interrupt her recall and perform the restrained recall with incremental distractions. And in real life you could use the e-collar.

 Quote: Michael Pugsley

Are there certain distractions that cause your dog to avoid your recall? If she is good with restrained recalls you could set up distractions that normally interrupt her recall and perform the restrained recall with incremental distractions. And in real life you could use the e-collar.

You got me thinking. So far the problem is just willfulness. I completely avoid letting her drag the line or go off leash if I feel the situation could become too hard to manage. Basically we are still at the point that I will only let her go if we are in the middle of a field.

I'm sure if given he opportunity chasing would be the big one. Dogs, too.

I trained the recall just like Ed shows in the Basic OB video. We won't be winning any competitions but, my dog turns on a dime when called and comes straight to me. Consistency and proper correction are the keys, in my opinion. If others can't be consistent you might want to change the command for yourself and let the others continue with the failed, maybe now informal, command. And if the first correction doesn't get the dog's attention make sure the second one does, without causing a "you just killed me" reaction.