My 2y/o gsd decided the entire training session today to focus on the decoy's hand inside the bite jacket, or at least that area on the jacket. He would bite full and hard on the forearm as usual, then very quickly work his way to the opening for the hand and either hold it there by the front teeth, or actually stick his muzzle inside the jacket. the decoy would try to redirect the bite to anywhere else,but had to keep slipping the jacket when he felt the dogs canines tickling his knuckles. Any help and feedback is very appreciated! Thank you!

Brian,
Off hand, I'd say back off two or three steps and restart there.

What kind of pressure is the decoy putting on the dog? It sounds like maybe too much for where the dog is mentally.
In my book, nippy retargeting shows some insecurity, try stepping back in training for awhile and build slowly to develope the confidence you want/need.

If my dog isn't learning, I'm doing something wrong.
M & M Enterprises

That’s what I thought initially, but what prompted me to ask on this forum was that the decoy wasn't putting any pressure on him, and he’s been biting on this decoy for the last 6 months or so with wonderful results. This was the second time working at this location. Backing off does seem like the best way to go here. Thank you!

We also went back to the sleeve after the first bite, and my dog kept doing the same thing. Here is a pic of him that day working his way to the hand end of the sleeve to get inside the opening:

http://www.workingdogforum.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=2985&c=4

Sorry Brian,
I can only echo what others have said, it's the decoy's responsiblity to keep that kind of BS from happening.

The comment from the decoy about wanting to get 'to him' sounds more like a cop out then an evaluation to be taken seriously.
With the dog posted up firmly the decoy should be able to control the bite, reward and release.......and no chewing or retargeting.

Maybe it was just a bad day.

I appreciate your help, thank you!

Brian,

I would suggest going ahead and take your dog out and get back into doing some bite work with tugs and work your way back up to the sleeve.

I would take the dog out and back tie him and do some "opposition reflex" I think that is the correct terminology. While back tied get him to get hyped up and bite the tug and once he does pull back on it so that way if he lets go, he loses it. If he does not get a good bite let him readjust and then pull again, after a bit let him win it, but make sure he only wins it after holding it for a while.

When the decoy is involved make sure the decoy is acting his part and not being dead.

At least that's how I would work the problem out.

i have a 17 month old patrol dog that does not want to engage the decoy in muzzle with out a bite suit. he fights well in muzzle when the decoy has on equipment. he also fights well when the decoy grabs him and starts the fight.the problem is when i have him on a leash and the decoy comes up to him with no equipment on he will bark and back up like he is showing avoidance.but if the decoy grabs his tail or hair the fight is on and he fights very hard. can u help me?

Hi Randy,

You want to start your own thread with "new topic" up near the top of the forum page.

For this forum, "new topics" start here: http://leerburg.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/postlist/Board/3

Thanks.

I have a 4 year old GSD who is all around an excellent K9. I have conducted numerous training trials with everything in bitework ranging from hidden to full out ray allen trademarked red bite suits. I can back tie the dog and he will exhibit defense drive in a minimal amount enough to ward off the decoy, and go back to waiting to be pet by someone. The dog has phenominal prey drive which is always evident in bite work. My problem is that he just doesn't seem to "turn it on" with a lack of visible equipment. When I have the helper use a whip or other agitation device, the dog just wants to focus on that. If the helper drops the equipment he is using, the dog just wants to attack the whip, stick etc... Same thing goes if I have a toy present in my training area. The dog just locks on and stares it down. Oblivous to a helper with or without equipment. I have tried having the helper come up and flank the dog, at most though the dog will bite and release and go back to his toy. (sounds like general equipment orientatation I know) but does anyone have any experience on what they have done to increase the civil drive?