Once my dog knows the "look" cue how do i know when to begin to layer correction on not following the cue ie. when there are new distractions or while were doing heeling she will stay in postion but look away and look back and look away and whats the general opinion on correction delivery as far as Prong vs choke vs dominate dog collar

 Quote: kyle deserio

Once my dog knows the "look" cue how do i know when to begin to layer correction on not following the cue ie. when there are new distractions or while were doing heeling she will stay in postion but look away and look back and look away and whats the general opinion on correction delivery as far as Prong vs choke vs dominate dog collar

This is what the DD collar is .... QUOTE from Ed's web page:

Dominant Dog Collars for for Dominant or Aggressive Dogs

This collar is not intended to give a painful correction.

It's intended to take the air away from the dog.

More dogs are put to sleep every day for aggression problems than any other reason. Very very few of these dogs are beyond saving. With the right training and living with owners who understand how to control their dogs environment the vast majority of dogs can be rehabilitated, safely controlled and live a managed life.

Killing a dog must ALWAYS be the last resort. Learning how to use a dominant dog collar can and will often make the difference between having a dog put down or ending up as a pack leader and a dog the you can live with.

This collar was designed to be used on handler aggressive or dog aggressive dogs. Using a prong collar on these kinds of dogs often over stimulates the dog and makes them hectic and more aggressive. Using a dominant dog collar correctly (with emphasis on correctly) on the same dog takes drive and fight out of the dog.

If you have a problem with dog aggression or a dominant dogs I would recommend that you get my DVD titled Dealing with Dominant and Aggressive Dogs and go to my article section and read what I have written about Dominant and Aggressive dogs.

I assume that people who use this collar for handler aggression have run their dog through our pack structure program I outline in my DVDs. ..... With more aggressive dogs (on which other methods have failed) the handler should lift the dogs front feet off the ground for a few seconds until the dog settles down from his aggressive rage (see photo to left). This also tells the dog that you will not tolerate his behavior.

Most aggressive dogs only need to have their front feet lifted off the ground a few times to realize that you can take their air away when you want.

from http://leerburg.com/746.htm


I'm posting this to be clear that a DD collar is meant for what is called "hanging" a red-zone dog.

 Quote: kyle deserio

Once my dog knows the "look" cue how do i know when to begin to layer correction on not following the cue ie. when there are new distractions or while were doing heeling she will stay in postion but look away and look back and look away and whats the general opinion on correction delivery as far as Prong vs choke vs dominate dog collar

Have you taught the look command in many venues and slowly and gradually upped the levels of distraction? In what type of situation are you running into this?

I betcha this will be a proofing thing. We can guide you through some fun proofing.

DD collars are not advised to give 'corrections' in a training format... to my knowledge they are used as a back up to a prong collar (instead of a tab, connecting the prong to a flat collar) or to correct dog or handler aggressive (dangerous) dogs.

I don't personally use choke collars, except for tracking. Just personal preference.

Admitting I'm a beginner to formal/competition style heeling (my dog is not perfect yet, I have no room to criticize) this is what I would do:

Make SURE my dog knows Look, and Heel or Fuss (whatever command), and is ready for the level of distraction that is present. Maybe it's too much, too soon!

I would first try a correcting on a flat collar, as you are heeling nicely, and your dog breaks position, or looks away say 'nope, or no' (negative marker of choice). If that does not get the desired response, then give a LIGHT correction on a flat collar. Just as a reminder to the dog... 'hey, look at me!'. Move up in pressure, and collars from there. If a flat collar will work, then why use a prong? Ideally, prongs are phased out anyhow.

Thats just my $.02. I'm sure someone more experienced will chime in.

Haha- Look! Connie chimed in! That was the exact person I was thinking about.

Edited by Kelly Byrd (12/01/2010 01:06 PM)
Edit reason: Connie is faster then I am!

My problem is probably proofing any advice would be helpful , however i thought of giving light corrections on the flat collar, however were just begining leash pressure work and my ME focused heeling DVD will soon be in the mail (dont tell my wife lol) but I did't know if correcting on the flat collar would mess with the leash pressure stuff. I know shes young still as well but she knows what im asking her and just ignores me sometimes. mostly on focus and recall, focus is my concern really cause when shes focused she listens about 95% of the time.

 Quote: kyle deserio

My problem is probably proofing any advice would be helpful , however i thought of giving light corrections on the flat collar, however were just begining leash pressure work and my ME focused heeling DVD will soon be in the mail (dont tell my wife lol) but I did't know if correcting on the flat collar would mess with the leash pressure stuff. I know shes young still as well but she knows what im asking her and just ignores me sometimes. mostly on focus and recall, focus is my concern really cause when shes focused she listens about 95% of the time.

Correcting before thorough proofing (distraction, distance when applicable, and venue) is really kind of unfair.

I know others will chime in, but I'll come back later too and add my 1.5 cents about proofing. (It's easier to do than type ... but we can give you the idea.)

I don't think it's time for corrections. "When she's focused she listens 95% of the time" tells me that focus might be the #1 task here.

OK that makes plenty of sense, this is what i have been doing, when i add a distraction or one comes about and she is distracted I try to get her attention back and mark it when she refocuses. Is there something else i should be doing or is this all there is to it just rinse and repeat until she doesnt get distracted by anything. I didnt want to get ahead of myself thats why i started this thread maybe i should change the subject to Proofing Process

I too, agree...way too soon in her training for corrections t be used.

For focus & watch me command, you need to SLOWLY increase distractions & don't move on to the next higher level until she is ok 9 out or 10 times on a each day for a week or so, then move up to the next level. Very slowly increase in the size & type of diustractions. Think...back yard, fron yard, driveway, down the sidewalk, further down the street etc.etc each nmove will increase the distraction factor & p0resent new distractions etc.

Distance on recall is done the same as the distractions of recall. But NEVER increase both at the same time. I would work on distance (on an increasing length long line)then go back & start adding distractons on the long line at slowly increasing distances. Start in the back yard & then move to another fenced area...tennis courts are great for this, then maybe a ball field etc. Always on a long line.

My dogs, as pups(from 8 weeks) & young dogs, drag long lines for a long time out on fields etc until I am sure that they can be recalled under just about any distraction.

Take your time...you have the rest of your dogs life to continue it's training...you don't have to have it all done in 1 year. Corrections are not added until you have gone thru the training process & are absolutly sure ....remember the 9 out to 10 times, 9 out of 10 times...before even remotely thinking of a correction.

I rarely put corrections on my pups until they are about a year old & even then it has to be a serious infraction of the rules to cause me to take that kind of action. It is an on-going process to train new things & maintain old behaviors. I work on OB daily with my dogs, as well as train new things. Enjoy your dog.

I will also add that unfair corrections can destroy the relationship you have with your dog. So be very careful when you use them.

Thanks thats a great help, question tho while she is on the long line and say she gets distracted and wont refocus do i give a tug on the line or just jump and move around like a nut (my neigbors think im nuts lol) and wait til she refocuses and mark it?

How old is the dog?