This is for dogs already dog aggressive and does not define the causes of the aggression per say but
Determining the cause of aggression is the first step toward understanding it and dealing with it. This is my opinion can, only be accomplished, by seeing the dog in person.
Regardless of the cause of the aggression complete control of the dog is the first goal. This cannot be done by rewards alone (Sorry any Positive Only Operant Methodologist out there, I think you do more harm then good by dabbling in behaviors with only a cookie and a smile.) Rewards do and should play a part in reinforcing the good behavior signs after and during the extinction phase of a training program however.
A solid obedient dog is a one-command type of control and should be based on the dogs knowing he MUST do it not that he should do it because he wants a reward. So this means using compulsion in the form of a collar and leash redirection BEFORE the dog has an explosive episode and tries to attack. Dogs being social pack animals have rules and reinforce those rules. This form of redirection/correction is no different when applied with good timing and is an effective counterbalance because the dog is “forced” by the nature of things to trust your judgment, follow your lead and lets them know you are not going to tolerate their crap about it. A good leader is the cornerstone in pack-continuity and will actually calm the dog that would otherwise make up his own mind with a resulting action.
Begin by establishing reliable responses to the basic obedience commands. (One Command to action) If the dog can’t do this reliably and understands it is in fact obedience is a compliance exercise and not just a self-rewarding one then there is no chance that the dog will respond to problematic situations. Like I mentioned, rewards do have a part to play because other dogs can be taught that obedient behavior will not only avoid a corrective action but also earn the reward. The goal is in the end for the dog to view the other dog and associate the approach with the rewards it wants.
Looking for body signs the dog is focusing on something other then you. You don’t need to be close to the other dog to work this problem. Simply wait for the dog to stare at another dog start showing (depending on the cause of the aggression) signs of pressure building and as soon as you feel you can “sneak” away as fast as you can in the exact opposite direction of the other dog with leash in hand and a treat or gifty ready. This is important: SAY NO ONLY RIGHT BEFORE THE END OF THE LEASH Runs out AND THE DOG IS first surprised and then FORCED TO RECOGNIZE YOU ARE ON THE MOVE. As soon as the dog catches up to you give a release command (I use FREE) and reward the dog immediately.
Set the dog up every day with other dogs and new places with relatively the same distance between your dog and other dogs. It won’t take long before your dog understand that looking at the other dogs = you taking off and him getting a leash jerk from the action asn so will try very hard to glance at the other dog then back at you. IT IS HERE THE 2ND MOST IMPORTANT LESSON IS LEARNED. Reward for avoidance of pressures that lead up to aggression and seek seeking you out expecting your guidance. Remember dogs are thinking about what ever it is they are looking at and they also tend to avoid looking at things they don’t want or are having concerns about the consequences of their eye gazing it will have. Because in doggie language it means something and it believe it means something to us also.
This eye contact it will use to avoid the situation should be reinforced quickly and continually on a 1 to 1 ratio. Once the dog responds quickly and is receiving each and ever time at the distance you are working on you will want to up the ante be decreasing the distance (area of influence) between your dog and the dogs until you see the sign reappear and repeat the process to the point of extinction just as you did before. It won’t take long and often one or two sessions. It is up to the owner how close they wish to get the dog to be reliably calm around other dogs and the key is catching the problem before it is an aggressive episode and NOT after the dog goes off crazy in attack mode as most people practice. I personally recommend no closer to another dog then the length of 10 feet and even with dogs that are never aggressive to other dogs. Nose-to-nose contact is not the “great socializing party” people want it to be for most dogs but a practice that comes from over anthropomorphizing our dogs.
Once your dog is working for rewards and not showing signs of aggression you can move to a variable reward schedule and make the whole dog aggression issua an non-issue for all practical purposes. This means being aware of the dog, your environment and never PUSHING the issue to see what happens by tossing the dog into a situation you will not be able to control such as predicting the other dog’s response. Like Jerry said, “Avoidence still does not prevent accidents that are out of your control. Even then all the obed in the world will most likely go out the door.” So avoid the issue as much as you can. You will also need to follow trough with the aforementioned program again and again every time you see the signs. The final KEY is consistency as it is with all successful training programs.
And that is the BOO-HOO-HOO of it all. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />
Couldn't help it VC. Sorry man. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />
A dog teaches a boy fidelity, perseverance, and to turn around three times before lying down. - Robert Benchley
In order to really enjoy a dog, one doesn't merely try to train him to be semi-human. The point of it is to open oneself to the possibility of becoming partly a dog. - Edward Hoagland