Just wondering which methods worked for members here whose dog comes in too fast and slams the handler. I am currently directing my dog up toward my chest a few yards before he reaches me. But I have to make a transition yet to where I stand still with my hands down.

Sue

lots of short distance recalls. no more than 6 feet.
and exercises to make the dog learn the sit front.
have him sitting in heel and give your recall command. or put him in frint of you in a crooked position and give him a recall command. you may need to back up 2 or 3 steps at first to help him figure that out. but it helps the dog learn that "come" means sit in front of me.

Okay...have done all this and he understands it all. Perhaps I just need to lengthen the distance more gradually.
Sue

Hi Sue..

My dog also slammed me into next week on the recall.. I did a zillion short sit/fronts.. when I finally added the sit to the long recall.. I told the dog a good solid sit command about 4 feet before she got to me... At first it is going to be crooked..but with repetition it gets more correct.

Jody

Thanks <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Sounds like a good plan.

Sue

What do you guys think is easier: training a dog that is too fast on the recall (and slams into the handler) or training a dog that is too slow on the recall?

Fast isn't always easier, but it sure is nicer to work with in the long run.

I'll take too fast any day. Mistakes of enthusiasm are easy to work with; injecting drive into a dog that doesn't have it is WORK.

I have done pinch collars inverted, prongs facing outward, on both legs near or about the knees. This does not slow the dog down from his initial take off nor on his approach, so there are no long distance motivation / drive problems. It just keeps him off of your legs. The prongs are only abou 3/4 inch long and do not set the dog so far back that he is afraid to be close (read loose points) or avoid you all together. He simply avoids making contact. There is no need or use for an actual knee strike. This works just as a pinch is intended, for the most part, and the larger breeds will not incur eye, ear, nose or throat damage. It is one of those methods where the prongs need to be ever present in training. This also works to keep your dog straight in the last few inches by bending your knees in / out as needed to funnel him into the desired final position. Hope this helps.

Question: How do I teach the "military" type finish without too many gadgets or too much pressure? I have the use of only one arm , left, for the next 6-8 weeks. Thanks in advance.

The military finish - start small and build. Begin with the dog at the basic position. Tell him sit and step off just a small step to your right. Call the dog to fuss. If he really understands already where the fuss position is, he will sidestep over, line his body up nice and straight and sit in the right spot. If he only moves his front end over and doesn't realize that he has to make a conscious effort to bring his hindquarters over also, then you have to teach him how to do that first. I do that by taking a full step forward and only about 6" to the right and calling him to fuss. Typically the front end will be fine, but the dog will have his butt sticking out. BEFORE his butt hits the ground in the improper position, I try to intervene by using my left hand on the outside of his loin. Depending onthe dog's sensitivity, you can just tickle him there with one finger or tap to get him to move over just that little bit to line up straight, then sit and reward. I don't start off by using painful stimuli like flanking to get the faster avoidance response, cuz I know the dog hasn't got a clue what I want from him, so why hurt him. I assist him in finding the right spot with his rear for many repetitions. If he shows no desire to begin to avoid my assistance with the left hand, then I begin to step up the irritation from it, again very much dependent upon the sensitivity of the dog. Soon you'll either see the beginning of comprehension of where the butt needs to be to earn the reward, or at least you'll see the beginning of an avoidance response as you start to move your left hand to his butt. If he overcorrects, which usually happens, and he swings his butt behind your leg, don't punish. That shows that he's beginning to understand that he has to control his rear. Just help him straighten out before rewarding.

I stay at doing these very small forward and lateral step offs until the dog is really good at it, then I start stepping forward one step and over to the right a full step and calling to fuss. Also pivoting in place, rotating 25-45 degrees to your left, so the dog's shoulders are still pretty much correct, but he must swing his butt over to line back up, helps to teach him to be aware of his butt.

Once these pivots and step offs are quick and correct, then you just increase the amount of pivot that you ask the dog to make. Pivot in place 90 degrees to your left and call him to fuss. Gradually increase it until you are stepping in front of him and calling him to fuss. Never combine this work with your recalls or retrieves. It is a totally separate exercise which must be isolated and mastered before you combine it with other behaviors, or you will have a negative impact on the recall/retrieve.